This province is the smallest but also the most densely populated. Cities such as Johannesburg, Sandton and Pretoria are all situated here. There are several Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Johannesburg Section (+/- 750 members), MCSA Magaliesberg Section (+/- 450 members), the WITS University Mountain Club , the WITS Technikon Mountain Club, The RAU Mountain Club and a few others. The Johanneburg section of the Mountain Club of South Africa meets every Wednesday evening at 20h00 at their club house. Visitors are welcome to come along and meet other climbers and to get to know the local climbing scene. The address is Cnr Scott & Stirling Streets, Waverly, Johannesburg. There are also several climbing shops - see the Vendors & Shops page. A few indoor climbing gyms can also be found here.
There are a few small crags in the city areas but most of the good climbing in Gauteng is in the Magaliesberg. The Magaliesberg mountains range accross the northern part of Gauteng through to the eastern part of the Northwest Province.
Old Transvaal Trad Classics Tick List. Russ Dodding, Paul Fatti, Kevin Smith and Stewart Middlemiss compiled a list of classic trad climbs in the old Transvaal area. Russ editied this list with the other's input.
Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description, star-rating and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.
14th Avenue *
Small bouldering spot in Johannesburg near 14th Avenue.
A sport crag close to Pretoria that has been plagued by bad crime of late.
Bouldering in and around Lonehill/Fourways, the granite is a bit rough but some good problems here and there with limited access.
Magaliesberg - see Northwest ****
A few parts of the Magaliesberg are in Gauteng but mostly in the Northwest province, exellent multi-pitch trad with a few good sport routes.
Melville Koppies *
Shortish routes with top-anchors, guide will be available soon.
Not too exciting, but ok if you are in the area & the other areas are too far.
In Johannesburg, about 56 short natural routes, mostly with toprope anchors. Good view of Johannesburg & Sandton. Gets hot in summer, free access.
Strubens Valley **
This is a small crag near Johannesburg with about 44 short sport routes and 40 natural climbs. Access is free and easy and grades are easy to moderate. Ideal for starting out and training, usually quite busy on weekends.
The Chosspile ***
A small crag close to both Johannesburg & Pretoria. It overlooks the Hartebeespoort dam wall and has a few good quality sports routes ranging from 17 to 33.
The Keg *
A small bouldering spot near little falls in Roodepoort.
The Wilds *
This is a small bouldering/ training area but take care, muggings are common so only take yourself & your shoes and go in a big group.