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CLIMBING IN THE WESTERN CAPE

PROVINCE MAP * WC * MP * KZN *NW * GT * FS * EC * NP * NC

The Cape is full of mountains and provides a mecca of climbing. Cape Town being the main centre is a good base to start from. There are a few clubs mainly the MCSA Cape Town Section which has over 1200 members and a bouldering wall in their club room. The University also has a good bouldering wall and there is a small gym in Cape Town too. Good climbing is only a few minutes drive from Cape Town and the furtherest areas about 4-5 hours away.

With winter rainfall which often sets in and hot conditions in summer, spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Most of the areas are relatively safe and guidebooks cover most of the areas and are available from the MCSA, Mountain Mail Order and the climbing stores. The best areas are Rocklands for bouldering, Oudtshoorn, Montagu and Milner for sport routes and Table Mountain and Cederberg for trad routes.

Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description, star-rating and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.



De Doorns***
Good bouldering area with a high density of problems and 2 small sport crags. The bouldering areas have been host to the annual Agama Atra competition.
Steve Bradshaw bouldering at de Doorns
Steve Bradshaw
de Doorns
Miles Gibson bouldering at de Doorns Miles Gibson bouldering at de Doorns

Karbonaaitjies Kraal***
Smallish crag in the little Karoo near de Doorns, longish sport & trad climbing.

Krakadou***
Trad climbing in the Cederberg mountains.

Milner Amphitheatre*****
Excellent multi-pitch climbing in the Hex River mountains, both sport & trad with sensitive access, contact the MCSA first.
Karen Varga, Milner Amphitheatre
Milner
Amphitheatre

Montagu****
Beautiful climber friendly area with good sport routes.
Faye Brouard on 'Thruster' 26, Supertubes, Montagu
Thruster
Montagu
Kevan Watkins on 'Cool Like That' 29, Montagu
Cool Like That
Garron Fish on 'Hypoxia' 29, Supertubes, Motagu
Supertubes

Oudtshoorn*****
Our only known and climbed limestone crag. There are some steep and high walls with very featured limestone and some good quality hardish routes. Good camping, safe and easy access.
Andrew Pedley on 'El Nino' 30, Oudtshoorn
Andrew Pedley
Paul Brouard on 'Bobbejohn' 33, Oudtshoorn
Bobbejohn 33
Gordon Forges on 'Paws' 26, Oudtshoorn
Paws
Gordon Forges on 'Paws' 26, Oudtshoorn
Paws
Jamie Smith on 'El Nino' 30, Oudtshoorn
El Nino
Jamie Smith on 'El Nino' 30, Oudtshoorn
El Nino
Jamie Smith on 'El Nino' 30, Oudtshoorn
El Nino
Eric Riemann on 'Behr Hug' 24, Oudtshoorn
'Behr Hug'
Justin Hawkins on Up for Grabs, Oudtshoorn
Up for Grabs
Paul Brouard on 'Bobbejohn' 33, Oudtshoorn, from High Society Video
Bobbejohn 33
Andrew Pedley on 'El Nino' 30, Oudtshoorn
Andrew Pedley
Gordon Forbes on 'Behr Hug' 24, Oudtshoorn
Behr Hug

Rocklands*****
World famous for its fine bouldering in a very beautiful setting, there are also several sport and natural crags in this safe area.
Sean Cremen on a highball at Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Sean Cremen
Roadside boulders
Mark Millar on Roadside Boulder, Rocklands
Mark Millar
Roadside Boulder
Bernd Zangerl bouldering in Rocklands
Bernd Zangerl
Clinton Martinengo on 'Ceder Spine sitstart' 7C, Roadcrew Boulders, Rocklands
Ceder Spine
Karin Barr bouldering at Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Roadside Boulders
Jerry Moffat on 'Question of Balance' 7B/V8, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Roadside Boulders
Jerry Moffat on 7B+/V9 Dyno, Rocklands
7B+/V9 Dyno
Jerry Moffat of 'Kindom of the Sky' 7C/V9-10, Champside Boulders, Rocklands
Champside
Jerry Moffat on 'Nutsa' 8A+/V12, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Nutsa
Jerry Moffat on 'Pinch of Herbs' 7C/V9-10, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Pinch of Herbs
Jerry Moffat on 'Pinch of Herbs' 7C/V9-10, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Pinch of Herbs
Jerry's Arete, Rocklands
Jerry's Arete
Jerry Moffat on 'Pendragon' 8A/V11, Rocklands - Image from www.bouldering.co.za
Pendragon
Fire at Kliphuis campground, Rocklands
Kliphuis campsite
Arjan de Kock on 'Factor 15', 29, Rocklands
Factor 15
Karen Varga on 'Ceder Rouge' 24, Rocklands
Ceder Rouge
Jamie Smith on theCeder Rouge Boulder, Rocklands
Ceder Rouge
Shaun Harris bouldering at Rocklands Sean Cremen on 'Sean's Dyno', near Champside, Rocklands
Sean's Dyno
Champside area
Shaun Harris on 'Kingdom of the Sky' 7C/V9-10, Champside, Rocklands
Champside
Sean Cremen, Roadside boulders, Rocklands
Roadside Boulders
Shaun Harris on 'Pale Rider' 7C+/V10, Campground Boulders, Rocklands
Pale Rider
Warmup boulder, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Roadside
Sean Cremen on 'Evan's Problem' 7C/(V9/10), Campground boulders, Rocklands
Campground
Daniel Vecchiato highballing at the Roadside boulders, Rocklands
Roadside
Dave Birkett on 'Skinless Arete' 31, Roadside boulders, Rocklands
Roadside
Andrew Pedley on Cedar Spine 7B, Roadcrew Boulders, Rocklands
Andrew Pedley
Cedar Spine 7B
Fred Nicole on Mooiste Meisie 8B+/V14
Fred Nicole
Mooiste Meisie
Justin Hawkins, The Arch, 8A/V11
Justin Hawkins
The Arch 8A/V11
Justin Hawkins, The Arch, 8A/V11
Justin Hawkins
The Arch 8A/V11
Image from High Society Video
High Society Video
Guy Hubbard on 'Spider in the Roof' V11/8A, Rocklands, from High Society Video
Spider in the Roof
Jerry Moffat on 'Nutsa' 8A+/V12, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Nutsa
Jerry Moffat on 'Pendragon' 8A/V11, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Pendragon
Rocklands Roadside Bouldering walk-in
Roadside Boulders
Sunset from the campsite, Rocklands
Kliphuis campsite
Francois Nicole on 'Teatime' 7C+/V10, Campground boulders, Rocklands
Teatime V10
Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Roadside Boulders
Shaun Harris on 'Pale Rider' 7C+/V10, Campground Boulders, Rocklands
Pale Rider
Daniel Vecchiato on a 7C+/V10, Ceder Rouge Boulders, Rocklands
Ceder Rouge Boulders
Paul Brouard on 'Duck l Orange', The Fortress, Rocklands
The Fortress
Dave Birkett, Roadside Boulders, Rocklands
Roadside

Silvermine***
Sport climbing crag close to Cape Town with over 50 routes.

Table Mountain*****
Many good exposed and longish trad routes can be found on Table Mountain, the cable-car makes for a good descent.

Tafelberg***
Multi-pitch trad climbing in the Cederberg mountains.

The Hole***
Sport climbing crag close to Cape Town with fairly high routes +/- 30 routes.
Gordon Forbes on 'La Mystic Voyeur' 24, The Hole

The Mine***
Smallish sport climbing crag close to Cape Town.
Tyrone Chan on Bolero, The Mine. Image by Witchell Wong Ho, courtesy of Red Bull Snapshot Comp
Bolero
Gordon Forbes on 'Bolero' 26, The Mine
Bolero

Topside***
Good bouldering in a nice setting close to Cape Town.
Evan Wiercx on 'Captain Grafitti' 8A/V11, Echo Valley, Topside
Echo Valley
Sean Cremen on 'God is a DJ' 6B+/V3, Amazon.com, Topside
Amazon.com
Sean Cremen on 'God is a DJ' 6B+/V3, Amazon.com, Topside
Amazon.com
Sean Cremen on 'Slam Dunk' 7A/V6, Shady Nook, Topside
Shady Nook
Guy Holwill on 'Ponder' 7B/V8, Amazon.com, Topside
Amazon.com
Evan Wiercx on
Evan Wiercx
Ard Ay 8B
Evan Wiercx on
Evan Wiercx
Ard Ay 8B
Steve Bradshaw on the direct finish to 'Bubka', V10/7C+, Seaside boulders, Topside
Steve Bradshaw
Evan Wiercx on 'Captain Grafitti' 8A/V11, Echo Valley, Topside
Echo Valley
Sean Cremen on 'Slam Dunk' 7A/V6, Shady Nook, Topside
Shady Nook

Wolfberg****
Good multi-pitch trad climbing in the Cederberg mountains.


 

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