SACIN - Route Guide for North Face

Climb INDEX * The Tempest Wall * The East End * The West End

This is the north face of the main mountain. There is vast potential for single and multi-pitch sport routes here. The Bug Boulder being just below and to the right of the face is included in this area. You can drive upto Spearhead as per the Spearhead description and then follow a path that leads towards the forest and uphill once out of the forest towards Whale Rock boulders then uphill and rightwards taking you towards MIRACLE FOUNTAIN. You can also walk uphill from the Spearhead slightly rightwards to the righthand side of the main face which passes through the Hillside boulders, the Bug boulder and to the base of SKINNY LEGS AND ALL.

The Tempest Wall

A great new wall above the Pacific Ocean Boulders on the main face with fairly good rock although the very bottom section of about 2m. At this point only single pitch routes on slightly overhanging rock, many pockets and edges on these routes. Access is via the Whale Rock Boulders but keep going uphill, don't take the right hand path that goes to The East End but rather head up and slightly left. The wall is usually dry even during rain.

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1. ANDREW'S PROJECT		30? [B,A]
Follows an overhanging line up a series of pockets. Started in 2003.
First Ascent: Bolted by Andrew Pedley

2. OPEN PROJECT		28? [12D,A]
A really hard start and a technical mid-section.
First Ascent: Bolted by Andrew Pedley

3. STORMCROW		25 **** [11D,A]
Follow the line of bolts up the sustained wall, take care clipping the second bolt. A bold line on the far right of the crag.
First Ascent: May 2003 Mark Millar

4. ACCESS ROUTE		[N,R]
A natural line used to establish the anchors. It goes up the obvious corner, take care on the hanging column as it seems to be loose.

The East End

The face from the East end to just left of the Miracle Fountain. Good potential for multi-pitch lines on mostly solid rock.

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1. OPEN PROJECT		[B]
A good moderate to easy line up the dark water streak about 50-100m left of THE BLOWN FUSE. Access to the top of this line for bolting from THe BLOWN FUSE.


2. THE BLOWN FUSE		19 [B,N]
Originally lead/soloed by Joffrey & Martin as an access route up the main face, turned out to have 2 damn fine pitches. It starts on a short grey face about 70m left of MIRACLE FOUNTAIN. This route is still evolving and since it was an access route some of the bolts are not ideal! Please note that this route as yet does not go all the way to the top.
1.	19 (6D,A) 13m Straight up to the grassy ledge. You may want to climb past the anchors and onto the grassy ledge. There are anchors to use about 2-3m to the left on the face.
2.	18 (10D,A) 26m An excellent pitch up some surprisingly solid rock, climbs up two bulges to a tree. Tie a knot in the end of the rope!
3.	10 (4D,A) Walk right from the tree along the ledge until you can see anchors in a vegetated gully. From here do a mantle move with a big slab above and climb diagonally to your left traversing quite a bit after clipping the first bolt.
4.	16 (7D,A) Follow the bolts to the chains.
5.	13 (A) Top anchors only, climb up rightward toward the forest. This is for access only and hence no bolts but is very easy climbing and allows for a great view!

First Ascent: Jul 2000 Pitches 2-4 led on trad (or can you say so if no gear was placed?). Pitches 1 & 2 bolted by Martin Bruning & Joffrey Hyman. Pitches 3 & 4 bolted by Dylan Morgan.

3. PICK POCKET		16 [11D,A]
Starts just left of a tree 3m left of MARTIN'S PROJECT. Climb up slighlty rightwards to a ledge. Good potential for a second pitch.
First Ascent: May 2002 Robert Verseput

4. MARTIN'S PROJECT		22? [13D,A]
Starts just right of a tree, 3m right of PICK POCKET and about 50m left of MIRACLE FOUNTAIN on a large rounded grey face 'leaning' agasinst the main face.
First Ascent: Bolted by Martin Bruning

The West End

This is the right hand side of the northern face. This includes the steep little Bug Boulder just below the main crags.

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1. MIRACLE FOUNTAIN PROJECT		28? ***** [16D,A]
Joffrey Hyman & Paul Brouard's project takes the inside of the arete just right of the Miracle Fountain, breaking onto the arete and heading slighlty rightward to the small steep pinnacle at the top. 2 Ropes are essential, one 60m will not work. Can be completed by others but please contact Paul or Joffrey first, some loose rock must still be cleared too.
1.	28 (14D,A) 32m Climb up and slighlty right for 32m.
2.	(A) Still being bolted.
3.	(A) Still being bolted.
4.	17 (4D,A) 10m Climb out right over easy ground and then up over a bulge to the chains.
5.	27/28 (12D,A) 26m Climb up into the steep section and to the chains.
You can top-out from here with a small lead-out however getting back down can be fun. GPS: 28,23.432,29,16.772


2. A TIME TO CLIMB		21,A0 [14D,A]
Roughly in the middle of the Inverted V, 10m left of the huge yellowwood. Some fine consumer face climbing. This is the first fully bolted route to top out at about 175m. The route has slab, face, overhangs and cracks and is worth doing. There is as of 2003 a gymnogene nest about 50m above this route, please take care not to disturb them.

1.	16 (10B,A) 18m Climbs the gray slab for about 20m. FA: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg
2.	17 (10D,A) 22m More slab climbing for about 22m. FA: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg
Note:	Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined to give one 40m pitch.
3.	21 (8D,A) Climb slightly left then up through face and slab section to stance at big ledge this pitch can be dirty. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph
4.	21,A0,F23 (10B,A) Climb left the up the crack and face to a cruxy technical section pulling through just below stance. Crux section can be aided on close bolts or freed at 23. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph
5.	19 (10D,A) Climb the slab section heading right to a good crack with some fun lay backing, at the top of crack traverse left to stance under roof on good ledge. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph
6.	18 (10D,A) Walk out left on small ledge the climb straight up and into off width roofy section, follow the crack from here to stance. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph
7.	16 (10D,A) Climb the slab, then through a bulge and onto another thin slab to the finish on top of the mountain. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph
Decent: Abseiling is recommended back to the ground, there are 8 abseils back down using a 50m rope or 4 on two ropes.
First Ascent: Mar 2002 to Dec 2003 Roland Magg, Rory Lowther, Chris Rudolph (all selected pitches) BB: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg

3. TRAD AIN'T BAD		17/18 [N,A]
Climbs the crack-line starting 4m left of the corner chimney on the right hand side of the inverted V slab above the forest. The route is left of HONEYCOMB.
1.	17/18 35m Follow the crack-line for 35m till the anchors.

Note:	A 60m rope just reaches the bottom with a bit of a stretch, take care and put knots in the rope. Possibly safer to use 2 ropes.

First Ascent: Feb 2002 Roland Magg

4. HONEYCOMB		16 [5B,A]
Takes the honeycomb rock just left of the trad route. This route is on an east facing side of the mountain that starts in a little forest.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Alard Hufner & Marianne Pretorius

5. ALARD'S TRAD PROJECT		[N]
This is a Alard & Marianne's crazy trad project taking the large left slanting crack that heads all the way up the mountain on an east facing side. The start is in a forest just right of a short bolted line in the honeycomb rock.


6. SCRAPPING THE BARREL		25 *** [B,A]
3 long pitches. Starts in a small corner next to a black water streak. Take 2 ropes to abseil, some of the pitches are more than 30m.

1.	25 (38m?) The first pitch starts with a neat but small right facing corner. Two ropes required to abseil off this pitch!
2.	22 (xm)
3.	21

First Ascent: Pitch 1 and pitch 3 opened by Eric Riemann late 2004, pitch 2 opened by Marianne Pretorius in Jan 2000.

7. LONG BOLT TO FREEDOM		17,A0 [B,A]
This route is located on the West Tower of the Swinburne Mountain. The route starts at a 15m layback crack on the NE corner of the tower. A tree and boulders are located at the corner at the bottom of the rock. The layback crack is 4m left of this. SKINNY LEGS AND ALL starts a few metres right of this route and some anchors are shared. The West Tower is a free-standing summit and there is a summit book on top under the cairn. Due the logistical problems of bolting a route which is mainly free standing and in a remote location, all but pitches 3 and 4 where bolted on lead. This means that at times bolts are not placed in the best position. This is also why expansion bolts were used. Take 2 ropes to abseil off this route.
1.	17 Climb the layback, move right just under tree and up to stance in large round cubby hole. Belay IN cubby hole.
2.	12 Move up and rightwards on easy rock and through huge natural holes. Keep moving right till you see some other glued-in bolts and some chains belonging to SKINNY LEGS AND ALL. Go up and into a stance in a cubby.
3.	17, AO(23?) This climbs left from the stance in a zigzag manner till eventually traversing left into a smooth, shallow recess which is the crux. Pull on draws if needed, A0. Up to stance in perfect cubby hole. (Note: The last abseil is from these chains)
4.	16 Follow bolts up the huge face to chains(shares chains with SKINNY LEGS). Scramble up onto grassy ledge moving left about 10m.
5.	15 Up recess to stance on big ledge.
6.	15 Up recess to stance under roof.
7.	7 Walk right along ledge for 15m to corner past one bolt.
8.	A0 Aid for 3m and scramble to the summit.

Abseil from summit chains to big grass ledge is about 50m.
Abseil from top of pitch 4 to top pitch 3 is about 48m.
The top of pitch 3 to ground is about 48m.
First Ascent: Nov 2004 Gavin Raubenheimer, Cally Henderson, Cesar de Caravalho

8. SKINNY LEGS AND ALL		23 **** [11B,A]
This route starts at the Windy Gap corner of the mountain. There is a tree up against the mountain here. The first bolts are just to the right of the tree. A super fun route! Take two 50m ropes to abseil down. A 60m rope will be a little too short!

1.	22 (9B) 30m A pumpy pitch leads to a comfy cave belay.
2.	23 (8B) 25m Lead straight up through a 'fun' crux.
3.	19 (9B) 40m Heads up until the angle starts easing off.
4.	?

First Ascent: Sean Ferguson & Mark Seuring

9. SKWISH		26 [6D,A]

First Ascent: Matthew Murison

10. RICOTTA CHEESE		26 * [6D,A]
Just right of SKWISH, a little sharp.

First Ascent: Eric Riemann

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