SACIN - Route Guide for Spearhead Boulders

Climb INDEX * The Snail * The Spearhead Boulder * Indian Rock * Footprint Boulder * Amorph Boulder * Deception Boulder * Sausage Boulder * Boulder F * The Yellow Belly * Art Boulder * Boulder D * Bleat Boulder * Homeless Boulder * Spearmint Boulder * Roadside Boulder

The most obvious boulder which is shaped like an arrow can be seen from the road while driving towards the mountain. There are several other boulders scattered around this boulder with some good problems and a few easier routes. To get to these boulders walk along the road that heads towards the mountain from the barnyard. The road curves to the left and then hits a hairpin where you can see the Spearhead Boulder ahead of you, charge about 80m uphill to get to this complex of boulders. At present this is the most developed area for sport climbing. It is also possible to drive along the road until it levels at the second hairpin and you can see the Spearhead boulder ahead of you, instead of taking the hairpin drive straight along a track right upto the boulder, the road can be quite a challenge, especially in wet weather.

The Snail

This is a small round boulder just south of the Spearhead boulder, side on it looks like a snail.

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1. SNAIL TRAIL		V2/5 **
Head up the side of the boulder that faces the Spearhead boulder and top out.

The Spearhead Boulder

This is the obvious tall narrow boulder. It is about 27m high with several sport routes on it, ranging from grade 17 to 28 at present. The boulder has an east and west face which means that you can follow, or avoid the sun depending on the weather.

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1. BOGEY		28 *** [8D,A]
Takes the steep line on the front of the boulder which faces downhill. Start up the slab very carefully due to much loose rock on the bottom slab and hit the roof. Bolt #2 looks dodgey.
First Ascent: Dec 1999 Matt Murison

2. STICKY WEEKENDS		19 *** [11D,A]
The leftmost route on the west side of the boulder, almost 20m long!
First Ascent: Dec 1999 Marianne Pretorius

3. FLYERS		18 *** [12D,A]
This route starts right of STICKY WEEKENDS and veers left to join that route.
First Ascent: Dec 1999 Alard Hufner

4. LOST ARROW		18 *** [13D,A]
Starts in the middle of the boulder on the west side.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Russ Dodding, Joffrey Hyman & Heather Murch

5. JERIPEGO DUSK		17 *** [11D,A]
The line of pockets and buckets 2-3m right of LOST ARROW.
First Ascent: 2004 Roland Magg. Some bolts by Russ Dodding.

6. BULLSEYE		23 **** [8D,A]
Starts behind the large tree just left of QUIVER. The first crux can be avoided if you have a huge armspan, fun moves.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Joffrey Hyman & Russ Dodding

7. QUIVER		18 *** [9D,A]
Line on right hand side of west face of boulder. Good balancy face moves.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Martin Bruning

8. YATO		21 *** [6D,A]
Between QUIVER and SPEARY, some unusual climbing. The route name is an acronym for Yet Another Twenty One. Consensus on grade wanted.
First Ascent: Dec 2002 Roland Magg

9. SPEARY		20 *** [6D,A]
Climbs the side closest to the main mountain. Pull on some fun pockets to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 2000 Eric Rieman & Joffrey Hyman

10. YOWZER		21 *** [6D,A]
Short fun line left of MOON UNIT.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Mark Seuring

11. MOON UNIT		21 ** [6D,A]
Fun pocketed line left of PLATYPUS. Many holds, the good ones well hidden. Can be a little sharp on the fingers.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Marianne Pretorius

12. PLATYPUS		17 *** [8D,A]
Takes the bottle shaped groove on the east side. This makes for an unusual but good route.
First Ascent: Dec 1999 Alard Hufner

13. BIG BALLS		21 ** [7D,A]
Starts next to PLATYPUS and heads up rightward.
First Ascent: Dec 1999 Mark Seuring

14. OPEN PROJECT		[A]
Was Craig Reed's project, only has top anchors. Grade may be between 25 and 28?


15. PECORINO		26 ** [6D,A]
The rightmost route on the eastern side of the boulder, a little sharp. CHEAT CLIP the second bolt when leading to avoid a potential groundfall!
First Ascent: Eric Riemann

Indian Rock

The boulder on the west side of the main Spearhead boulder. Steep face on western side.

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1. CURRY MUNCHER		23 [5D,A]
Climbs the steep pocketed route on the west face.
First Ascent: Mar 2002 Roland Magg. Bolted by Roland and Rory Lowther.

2. MURRY CUNCHER		V2/5
Boulder problem up the arete (right of the bolts).
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Andrew Porter

Footprint Boulder

The smallish boulder between Spearhead and Ampoph boulders closer to Amorph boulder with a prominent footprint painted on the south eastern side.

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1. SLIPPERY WHEN DRY		V3/6A+ *******
Start standing at the painted foot and traverse on edges to the right staying at the same level. About 3m from the start move up to top out.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Martin Renz

2. FOOTPRINT		V4/6C **
Start as with SLIPPERY WHEN DRY but dont move up, traverse to the righthand arete and finish as for FOOTSY.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Martin Renz

3. FOOTSY		V3/6B+
On right sit start with a diagonal crack at waist height up to a diagonal sidepull and up to the right.

Amorph Boulder

This is the westmost boulder in this complex of boulders, close to the upper road. Some fun easy lines can be found here as well as 2 boulder problems on a separate boulder.

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1. LINE DANCER		13 * [3D,A]
A very short route taking a short arete left of DRIE HOEK KERRIE KOEK KOELIE.
First Ascent: Aug 2000 Dylan Morgan

2. DRIE HOEK KERRIE KOOLIE KOEK		12 ** [5D,A]
The route up the east facing slab section of the boulder.
First Ascent: May 2000 Dylan Morgan

3. HIP 2 B SQUARE		15 ** [5D,A]
On the western side of the boulder.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Graeme King

Deception Boulder

Boulder left of the Spearhead when facing the mountain.

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1. DECEPTION		V3/6B+
Sit start on left habnd side of arete, right on edge and left on low layback. Straight up and top out on slots and pockets.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Sean Cremen

2. DECEIVED		V3/6B
Sit start on right hand side of arete, left on laybacvk around arete, right on edge, straight up right hand side of arete and top out.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Sean Cremen

Sausage Boulder

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1. SUNSET		V1/4
Stand start on prow, right hand on jug, left habd on a positive edge, left of the arete. Top out straight up the arete.
First Ascent: Dave Drummond

Boulder F

The small boulder between the large Boulder E and the Yellow Belly Boulder.

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1. BEWILDERED		V1/4 *******
Start sitting on the south side of the boulder with a sidepull for the right & a sloper for the left, climb up slightly left and top out.
First Ascent: Joffrey Hyman

The Yellow Belly

This is the boulder with a yellowood tree almost hiding the face. Home to the classic YELLOW BELLY problem.

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1. RED BELLY		V4/6C *******
Sit start, left hand on low crimp in scoop and right higher on sloping crimp use for left hand on PISS. Move up to slopers and leftish to top out.
First Ascent: 2002 Eric Riemann

2. YELLOW BELLY		V4/6C ********
Standing Start, left & right hands on a large layback, top out via a huge pig's nose, slightly to left.
First Ascent: Sean Cremen

3. PISS		V5/6C+ **
Sit start to the left of YELLOW BELLY on a crimp with left and crumbly undercling for the right, move right up to another crimp and then climb into YELLOW BELLY.
First Ascent: 2001 Greg Streatfield

4. OPEN PROJECT
Up the middle of the face on small sidepull & crimps just right of Yellow Belly. Possibly around V9/7C.


5. !#$% THE MONKEY		V3/6A+ **
Stand start, climbs the arete to the top, possibly easier.

Art Boulder

The little low boulder just next to Yellow Belly Boulder.

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1. ART		V4/6C *******
Start on edge for left and layback for right low down on middle of face, up left to edge and right to slopers, top out. Big protruding rock on left is off route.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris

2. RABOBIE		V4/6C
Start as for ART, exit right, horn on the right is off limits.
First Ascent: Eric Riemann

3. NOUVEAU		V2/5 **
Sit down start up on arete to top out.

Boulder D

This boulder has a good spread of moderate problems on it.

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1. GRASS ROOTS		V1/4
Stand start on a platform with an undercling, top out and don't fall!
First Ascent: Dave Drummond

2. NO NAME		V1/4
Straight up the middle of the scooped wall, top out.


3. APACHE		V3/6B *******
Stand start, move left hand to undercling and right hand on arete, top out up arete.


4. NO NAME		V3/6B+
Start as for APACHE, traverse to NAVAHO.


5. OPEN YOUR MIND		V4/6C *******
Straight up the middle of the face, starts in a bowl.
First Ascent: Matthew Murison

6. NO NAME		V3/6B+
Starts 1m left of YELLOWSTONE.


7. YELLOWSTONE		V3/6B
Sit start with left and right both on laybacks, move up to a finger slot just left of the arete & top out.


8. NAVAHO		V3/6B
Sit start in middle of small face, undercling for left & big sloping edge for right, climb up to top.


9. NO NAME		V2/5
Sit start and climb up arete.


10. JUMPING ELEPHANTS		V3/6B
Stand start with left hand on low good edge above middle of small cave, move up to pinch with right and top out state up scoop.
First Ascent: Feb 2003 Dave Drummond

11. LEFT-HANDED POLAR BEAR		V2/5
Sit down start with hands on hold low down on the corner. Move slightly diagonally left and top out up the arête.
First Ascent: Feb 2003 Dave Drummond

Bleat Boulder

This boulder is a bit further down the hill and more to the left than indicated on the diagram. The boulder almost touches the fence and the problems face north.

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1. SLAPPER		V6/7A
Sit start 2m left of BLEAT, with one foot each side of a small cave and whatever you can find for your hands in and around the recess. Move up left, and top out past a huge bucket.
First Ascent: Sep 2003 Dave Drummond

2. BLEAT		V6/7A **
Start with left in a pocket and right on an edge, move upto an edge and top out.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris

3. BLAAAAH		V5/6C+
No Details, about 1-2m right of BLEAT.

Homeless Boulder

This boulder needs to be positioned...help!

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1. POKEMON		V5/6C+
Homeless problem, we are unsure where it is. Sit start on the left arete on two obvious slopers and move straight up on the 1 finger pockets.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Martin Renz

2. UP THERE... SOMEWHERE		V6/7A
Homeless problem, we are unsure where it is. Just right of POKEMON stand start on small sidepull and jump to a jug.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Martin Renz

Spearmint Boulder

From the road instead of walking up towards the Spearhead boulder follow the road for a few hundred metres until you see a big boulder up and to your left about 50m off the road. You can also reach this boulder by walking uphill from the Conscious boulder for about 100m to the road and then leftward up to the boulder.

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1. DISK		V1/4 **
Start just to the left of a small tree. Start on plate and climb up right.


2. IMPERIAL		V3/6B+ **
Starts sitting on a big sloping ledge. Move up right to a good grip and top out.


3. CHASING THE DRAGON		V8/7B **
Start standing with left on a good edge and right on a small crimp, dyno up to edge slightly to the right and top out tending left. Can rip your right hand tape the joints to be safe. Oddly another problem with the same name was opened at the same grade on the same weekend after the same movie in Alicedale by Kevan Watkins.
First Ascent: 2002 Sean Cremen

4. BLACK MIRAGE		V9/7B+ ********
Start in the obvious seam, top out with a good spotter. A classic! A crimp at the start has broken but it seems the grade remains unchanged.
First Ascent: 2002 Daniel Vecchiato

5. ENDEAR		V0/3
Starts just right of tree, reach up left to the prow.


6. PERPETUITRY		V1/4 ** [R]
Climb the crack and dodge the bush, carefull of the loose block.
First Ascent: Yiding Jiang

7. CONTREAU		V2/5
Start standing on a rock,diagonal edge for your right and climb to top tending right.

Roadside Boulder

A little boulder right next to the road a little further downhill from the Spearmint boulder.

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1. SAKKIE SAKKIE		V3/6B *******
Sit start just right of a bush in a hollow. Start with left on a sidepull and right on a sloping sidepull. Up to a big jug on the lip and mantle to top out.
First Ascent: 2002 Daniel Vecchiato

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