Please
read our Disclaimer .
Melville is a small
crag with a few short and steep lines. The cliffs get up to 14m high but
are only about 80m wide. Please take care at this crag as there has been
at least one mugging here so far.
Access
The cliffs are situated in a
nature reserve west of the T junction of Beyeres Naude (DF Malan Drive)
and Judith drive, Melville Johannesburg with the West Park cemetary bordering
to the north. Park on Beyers Naude and enter through a gate about 80m south
of the crag. A well worn path will take you to the cave (which has been
declared a national monument) and the rest of the cliffs. You may want
to park in Melville itself and walk to have your car more secure.
There are several shops in melville
just up the road on Beyers Naude drive and the Melville swimming pool over
the road from the shops are welcome after a hot day's climbing.
Safety & Medical
The closest hospital is Milpark.
For serious accidents please call the MCSA Rescue team on 011 315-0203.
Aspect The cliffs face east and
tend to be overhanging at the base of the harder routes. The cliffs are
very close to the city centre (+/- 10 mins) so climbing after work is a
definite option. Trees provide good shade near the crag. A splendid training
traverse exists along the base of the main butress.
Ethics & Bolting
The rock is a hard sandstone
or quartzite so Hilti HSA-KR stainless M10 exapnsion bolts should be fine.
For more bolting information visit our Bolting
page.
Routes There are currently about
16 routes bolted at present. A little bouldering can also be done.
Please
send any new route information, images and any corrections/ suggestions
to routes@saclimb.co.za
