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Guide for Melville Koppies

Climb INDEX * Main Crag

Main Crag
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ROCK DOCTER 21 ** [6D,A]
On the far left hand side of the main cliff, starting from the ground follow the evident crack to the top. Bottom bolt keeps rope out of climbers way.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit. Nov 2002
 
ELFSTONE 17 ** [6D,A]
Start 2M to the left of ROCK DOCTER and climb straight up, keeping in line with the bolts. Dont move too far right.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar. Nov 2002
 
GREMLINS BANNISTER 16 ** [7D,A]
Start 1m to the left of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS, climbing up jugs into a corner under an overhang. Pull through overhanging block and up the ridge to the top.
First Ascent: BB: Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar Nov 2002
 
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS 14 ** [7D,A]
The climb follows the obvious chimney/corner to the left of the overhanging buttress.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar. Nov 2002
 
WHIPLASH 22 *** [7D,A]
Starting from the ground, climb the left ledge of the butress just to the right of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS. Don't use the wall or outcrop behind you.
Variation: Use outcrop - 20
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar & Neil Margetts. Sep 2002
 
ZIONIST ENERGY 25 ** [6D,A]
Starting about 1,5m to the right of WHIPLASH. A smooth face with a thin seam leading to an overhang. Follow seam through the small break to a ledge (8m). Continue directly up from the ledge. The climb is graded as not using the good grips from the climbs on either side.
First Ascent: BB: Andries Smit, Derek Pienaar & Neil Margetts. Sep 2002
 
SLUSH ARMS 23 **** [7D,A]
Starting 4m to the right of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS, climb up on good holds to the rail just under the overhangs (4m). Pull through overhang, moving up rightwards following the thin knobby convoluted crack.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar, Andries Smit & Neil Margetts. Sep 2002
 
THE HAKKINEN HEGEMONY 24 ** [7D,A]
Three meters to the left of ZEPPELIS is an overhang 5m up with obvious under clings of its base. The overhang has 2 square corners facing left at the lip. Climb directly up and through the left hand corner. A harder version is not to use the jug of CHALKIES.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar. Nov 2002
 
CHALKIES DIRECT 22 ** [6D,A]
Start as for the route to the left; climbing up diagonally right to the corner on the right (mentioned in CHALKIES ROUTE) and follow CHALKIES ROUTE to the top.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar. Nov 2002
 
CHALKIES ROUTE 21 *** [6D,A]
Start as for ZEPPELIS but rail left above the bulge 1,5m and balance up into a corner. Move left on a higher crack for a further 1m to reach corner/crack. Continue up the corner to the top.
First Ascent: BB: Neil Margetts, Bjorn Bjornsvik & Derek Pienaar. Sep 2002
 
NECROMANCER'S NOSE 20 [6D,A]
Start of as, and use the first two clips from CHALKIES ROUTE then move slightly right to the overhang, and climb over the nose. Follow CHALKIES to the top. (Consensus grading needed)
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar. Nov 2002
 
MECER'S MAGIC 22 ** [5D,A]
Start as for ZEPPELIS but traverse left for 1m only. From here climb straight up the crack system and overhanging bulges.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar, Neil Margetts & Bjorn Bjornsvik. Oct 2002
 
ZEPPELIS 19 ** [5D,A]
To the right of the main buttress is a deep undercut bulge near the ground. The climb starts in the obvious corner right on the middle of the buttress above the undercut. Follow the corner without exiting too far right.
First Ascent: BB: Neil Margetts & Derek Pienaar. Oct 2002
 
LADIELLE 20 ** [5D,A]
Clip the first two bolts from ZEPPELIS. From hereon move up and keep left. Climb up the white bulged nose and continue to the topout.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar. Nov 2002
 
CRANKER 21 ** [4D,A]
Crank off the ground 3m to the right of ZEPPELIS and proceed straight up keeping off the ridge.
First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar, Andries Smit & Neil Margetts. Oct 2002
 
TUX'S CORNER 21 [N]
A short but fun bouldery climb to the right of CRANKER. Standing right underneath the jutted corner, hang and dyno up to the groove further up on the nose. Be careful if continuing to the top since there are no bolts.
 
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