SACIN - Route Guide for Magnetic Wall Crags

Climb INDEX * Main Mag Wall * The Gully * The Headology Area * The Castle Butress * The Red Wall

From the entrance take the left fork, park in the signposted area just past the reception office. Take the path from the parking directly down the hill. When you get the game fence climb over the stile and follow the path left along the fence. The path drops slightly right and comes out below the cliffs. The crags are shaded during the morning which makes it a good spot during the hot summer months.

Main Mag Wall

This is the main wall in the Mag Wall area and features most of the better routes. This is the first crag you get to from the path on the walk-in.

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OH MERCY		23 *** [6D, A]
The first route on the left, Steep cranking on large holds.
First Ascent: T Mackenzie 1994

BREAK OUT		24 *** [7D, A]
A touch reachy but still a good line
First Ascent: T Mackenzie 1994

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO CAM		22 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: C Pearman, 1993

IAN'S ROUTE		22 ** [7D, A]

First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995

SMILING HAPPY ENGINEERS		15 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995

XAWN		15 ** [8D, A]

First Ascent: A Peterson, 1996

THE DRAGON LADY		12 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: Spirit Of Adventure, 1994

SEX AND CANDY		26 *** [10D, A]

First Ascent: A Dagliesh, 1998

TAKE AWAY		25 **** [6D, A]

First Ascent: C Robertson, 1993

REFLECTIONS		27 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: C Pearman, 1994

DISSING THE HOMEBOYS		21 **** [B,A]

First Ascent: I Manson, 1993

THE CREASE MASTER		27 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: P. Brouard, 1997

NATURAL PROGRESSION		18 ** [7D, A]

First Ascent: H Green and E Penman, 1993

CLOCK AROUND THE ROCK		22 ** [5D, A]
Bouldery to the second bolt.
First Ascent: Caroline Pearman, 1993

DAVE'S PROW		24 ** [7D, A]

First Ascent: D Deetliffs, 1995

The Gully

The Gully can be accessed by walking right from the Magnetic Wall, past some overhangs to the next area.

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EPILADY		20 ** [6D, A]

First Ascent: D Viljoen, 1995

MR POTATO HEAD		14 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: A Dalgleish, 1996

MINDLESS JIVE		22 *** [6D, A]

First Ascent: G Camp, 1995

MOONSHINE		15 *** [8D, A]

First Ascent: E Penman, 1994

ITCHY		11 **

First Ascent: Unknown

SCRATCHY		8 **

First Ascent: Unknown

The Headology Area

Further right from the Gully you will get to the next set of routes just before a large roof. The classic HEADOLOGY runs through the middle of this roof.

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EGO DISTONIC		14 *** [9D, A]

First Ascent: A Peterson, 1996

BABOON EATS KEYBOARD PLAYER		22 ** [6D, A]

First Ascent: D Tromp, 1995

SEASON OF DEATH		22 *** [9D, A]

First Ascent: G Camp, 1995

TICKETS AND TENANTS		13 ** [7D, A]

First Ascent: G Camp, 1995

GERALD DOES PULP FICTION		21 *** [8D, A]

First Ascent: I Manson, 1995

SNAIL TRAIL		19 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: I Manson, 1995

AFRICA FAREWELL		17 ** [8D, A]
There is an alternate start to AFRICA FAREWELL, climbs up the break to the right (don't whimp out onto the ledge). It is called AFRICA REVISITED.
First Ascent: A Camp, 1995 (Alternate start by Paul Coysh)

THE EXILE		24 *** [8D, A]

First Ascent: G Camp, 1995

HEADOLOGY		28 **** [9D, A]
The VERY steep line through the roof. The root doesn't get climbed much so bring a brush for the top holds.
First Ascent: G Holwill, 1994 BB: A Alcock

The Castle Butress

Continue on along the base of the crag from Headology to this area. This path is often indistinct and some bush-bashing is sometimes required.

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GARGOYLE		23 ** [7D, A]

First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997

QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL		21 *** [7D, A]

First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997

THE COURT JESTER		19 *** [8D, A]

First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997

KNIGHTS HONOUR		17 ** [9D, A]

First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997

The Red Wall

Further on from the Castle Buttress area you will find The Red Wall. This area offers some longer vertical routes. In summer the routes here can get a bit sandy.

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OLD AND IN THE WAY		19 ** [10D, A]

First Ascent: I Manson, 1995

OLD DOGS, NEW TRICKS		17 *** [13D, A]

First Ascent: D Deetliffs, 1995

MONDO BITCH TURNS ROPE GUN		17 **** [12D, A]

First Ascent: I Manson, 1995

NATURAL BORN POSERS		20 **** [12D, A]

First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994

BIKER BABES IN BLACK LEATHER		18 ** [11D, A]

First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994

THE FAR COUNTRY		14 ** [11D, A]
The route below the Red Wall, starting in the riverbed.
First Ascent: Spirit of Adventure, 1995

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