SACIN - Route Guide for The Caves

Climb INDEX * The Rasta Cave * The Wave Cave

To gain access to these crags park as for the Magnetic Wall and walk right down the hill untill it comes out on the road again. Continue along the dust road, the river will be on your right. Just after the start of the 4X4 course the path beaks right towards the river. Walk down the water course, cross the river heading for a largish tree alongside the river. At the tree remove any wet items of clothing and continue along the path as it heads further down the gorge, about 100m along the path breaks right. Continue up and left ignoring any splits in the path and you will walk into the Wave Cave from the right. You can also park by the dam wall to make the walk in shorter however there have been a few car break-ins here. Please take care in the cave areas as there have been a few isolated incidents of crime. Check with the guards at the entrance to the reserve regarding the current security & access situation. The caves are mostly shaded but do get early morning sun until about 10h00. Due to the high humidity summer climbing is not recommended. These caves have some of the country's best and hardest steep sport routes and are definitely worth a visit.

The Rasta Cave

To get to the Rasta Cave continue past the Wave Cave through the small bouldering cave and on for about 150 meters (this part of the walk is sometimes quite vegetated). The Rasta Cave is lower than the Wave Cave and the routes tend to be more strength orientated. The routes on the right are slightly longer and more sustained than the bouldery routes on the left of the cave. There are some easier more vertical routes at the far end of the crag.

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NICK NOK		15 ** [7D, A]
The last route past the Rasta Cave on the vert walls further on.
First Ascent: N De Carvalho, 1996

MELANGE		14 ** [6D, A]

First Ascent: M Viljoen, 1996

SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION		19 ** [10D, A]

First Ascent: J Taljaardt, 1996

HUBBLY BUBBLY		32 **** [8D, A]
The last route in cave territory. Bouldery and very draining to work.
First Ascent: P Brouard, 1996

PROJECT		? [8D, A]
The route heading left towards the chains of Hubbly Bubbly.
First Ascent: J Taljard, 200?

MEIN KAMPF		27 **** [8D, A]
Delicate roof foot work and good body tension required.
First Ascent: E Olds, 1999

NICKS ROUTE		24 *** [7D, A]
The route which didn't quite make it, useful as a warm up though. It ends on a single biner and bolt just before the roof.
First Ascent: BB N de Carvalho

MARRIED MEN CAN'T CLIMB		26 **** [7D, A]

First Ascent: BB E Blomeyer, FA D McHendry

ACTION ERECT		28 **** [7D, A]
The left route of the two which share the same start.
First Ascent: D McHendry

ALPHA BLONDIE		25 **** [7D, A]

First Ascent: D McHendry

RUGGA MUFFIN		26 *** [8D, A]
The last route before the wall shortens off.
First Ascent: D McHendry & E Olds, 1998

RATTLE AND HUM		26 **** [8D, A]

First Ascent: R Burroughs, 1996

SUPERNOVA		30 ***** [10D, A]
The best looking line in the Rasta Cave. A tough first section warms you up nicely for the desperate exiting moves!
First Ascent: D McHendry, 1996

GUARANA		29 ***** [12D, A]
A wide variety of moves on a steep and ridiculously sustained climb, excellent!
First Ascent: D Olds, 1996

DOPE ON A ROPE		29 **** [12D, A]
The leftward leaning diagonal to the right of 'Guarana'
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1996

POINT BLANK		30 **** [9D, A]
Super Cruxy, this route has not seen many repeats. Don't get on to this you're looking for your first 30 redpoint!
First Ascent: D McHendry, 1997

LUNA		24 *** [5D, A]
The first route as you come into the Rasta Cave.
First Ascent: R Burroughs, 1996

The Wave Cave

The routes in the cave are very steep and generally quite juggy routes. This inevitably produces some valiant redpoint attempts. There are several excellent five-star routes in the cave. Most of the routes have biner lower-offs but is is probably safer and easier to down-climb the routes.

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A BLONDE'S LIFE		19 [7D, A]
The short dusty route between the Wave Cave and the Bouldering Cave.
First Ascent: I Manson, 1995

YOU SNOOZE, YOU LOOZE		26 ** [7D, A]
The route on the far left of the Cave. The routes on this side aren't climbed often and normally require cleaning. They include some interesting climbing and are worthwhile doing.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1995

NATURAL BORN DRILLERS		24 *** [8D, A]
Break left at the ledge 3/4 of the way up.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1995

MICKEY AND MALLORY		26 *** [8D, A]
Instead of breaking left continue up and slightly right.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1995

LOVE 'N THE DEMON		30 *** [14D, A]
Strange moves leaving and gaining the groove. Tends to be dusty.
First Ascent: BB K Tonkin, FA P Brouard, 1998

WILD SHEEP CHASE		23 **** [8D, A]
'Wild Sheep Chase' refers to the action sometimes required to climb in the Cave.
First Ascent: BB M Viljoen, 1994

RUNNING SCARED		27 **** [11D, A]
The extension of 'Wild Sheep Chase'
First Ascent: K, Tonkin, 1995

WAKE UP		23 **** [7D, A]
The local warm up, be careful though if you're new to the Cave it might well do more that.
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994

RAPTURE OF THE STEEP		23 **** [7D, A]
The harder of the three 23's, doesn't quite warrant a grade of 24 though.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton, 1994

PENDULOUS MOMENTOUS		29 **** [11D, A]
The extension to Rapture, as with many routes in the Cave tight rope on the crux will reduce the difficulty. A touch hard for 29.
First Ascent: BB K Tonkin, FA D Olds, 1995

INVERTIGO		28 **** [10D, A]
Technical moves through the roof and a forearm blaze at the chains create this classic Cave 28.
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994

SIP 'N FLY		26 **** [9D, A]
A Classic 26. The bolt on the crux is often left out.
First Ascent: R Uken, 1994

EROS		33 ***** [13D, A]
Climb past Sip 'n Fly's chains and then head left to top out.
First Ascent: P Brouard, 2001

THE BIG MO		30 **** [13D, A]
Climb past Sip 'n Fly's chains and then to the finish of 'Riders in the Storm'
First Ascent: P Brouard, 1998

KICKED MY BUTT		26 **** [10D, A]
Originally opened at a very hard 25, to align it with the rest of the Cave grades we've moved it up to 26.
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994

CYCLONE CENTRAL		28 ***** [10D, A]
An absolute classic with some excellent moves.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1994

RIDERS IN THE STORM		30 ***** [13D, A]
Continue on past Cyclone's chains. The final hold may need dusting.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1994

SLAP 'N FLAY		32 ***** [13D, A]
AKA 'Riders Direct'. Climb directly up where Cyclone breaks left and continue through to the end of 'Riders in the Storm'
First Ascent: P Brouard, 1998

GLADIATOR		28 **** [9D, A]

First Ascent: Andy Alcock, 1994

NUMBSKULL		24 * [7D, A]
Loose & Sharp
First Ascent: G Camp, 1995

PARAGON		30 ***** [12D, A]
The most aesthetically pleasing line in the Cave. Sustained moves link together seamlessly to create a very enjoyable line.
First Ascent: Rodger Nattrass, 1995

ANTHRAX		29 ***** [12D, A]
The Line just right of 'Paragon'. Fun and Cruxy, the first few holds are sometimes dusty.
First Ascent: Rodger Nattrass, 1995

THE DREAMS OF SHARON TATE		27 *** [12D, A]
The route through the white tinged rock right of 'Anthrax', some strange but interesting moves, marred by a few dusty sharp holds.
First Ascent: Kevin Tonkin, 1994

FRIKKIE FISH LEGS		26 *** [10D, A]
A hard looking start leads the route right towards 'Barricade' / 'Thanatos'.
First Ascent: A Russell-Boulton, 1994

THANATOS		33 ***** [16D, A]
Start on 'Barricade' but breaks left where Barricade starts to ease off. A standing wave which just keeps coming at ya.
First Ascent: Paul Brouard, 1998

BARRICADE		32 ***** [13D, A]
Originally opened at 33, onsighted by Ellie Chiveoux who's comment was "One the hardest things I've ever onsighted..", but subsequently downgraded. Hard cruxes interspersed with cool moves and few rests. See if you can hang on until the chains!
First Ascent: Rodger Nattrass, 1995

THE STONE TEMPLE PILOTS		27 **** [10D, A]
The next route right, Good moves but prone to seepage. Beware of a loose looking block where the route joins 'FAT FREDDIE'.
First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995

FAT FREDDIE		28 **** [10D, A]
This route joins ' THE STONE TEMPLE PILOTS' and shares the same chains. The full name is 'FAT FREDDIE AND THE ATTACK OF THE KILLER COCKROACHES'
First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995

THE ETERNAL SUFFERING		25 ** [8D, A]

First Ascent: Harley Green, 1994

MOMENT OF INERTIA		27 *** [8D,A]
A stiff 27 a'la Damien, a good looking line with some bouldery moves.
First Ascent: D McHendry & D Olds, 1995

SCHIZOPHRENIA		24 ** [7D, A]
The first route on the right as you walk into the Cave.
First Ascent: J Taljard, 1995

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