SACIN - Online Route Guide for The Island

Climb INDEX * The Gulley * The Boulevard * The Beach * Never Never Land

An isolated island of rock northward from the campsite, it sports many routes in an excellent setting. Follow the path as for Flying is Fun from the campsite, past the pool, through the fence. The path forks right, take this and walk to a cairn. Walk down through the gulley and back up to the Island. The Gulley, Boulevard and Beach are all on the road-side with Never-Never land on the left (town side).

The Gulley

From the top of the Island walk northwards (towards the road) for 50m through various stone kraals across the Island to overlook the main road far below. You should only have to walk 20-40m to your right to find an obvious gully leading steeply down to the left. The routes on the outside of the gulley can be found in The Boulevard area. This area is mostly shaded and makes for good year-round climbing. There are some good face routes to be found here.

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AMAZONIAN WAR DANCE		21 *** [6D,A]
Climbs the face and arete at the end of the first wall on the right going down the gully (opposite LJS) Hard to onsight.

First Ascent: Ian Guest 1993
LONG JOHN SILVER		20 *** [9D,A]
Face to a small roof about 15m down the gully on the left.

First Ascent: Clive Curson 1993
ROCK ISLAND		20 *** [8D,A]
The seam just right of LJS. Opened on natural gear in the dark ages. Unintentionally retrobolted and renamed Fantasia. Thanks, Ian, good job!

First Ascent: S Middlemiss, W Jenkin, C Curson 1992 BB: Ian Guest
FACE THE MUSIC		21 *** [9D,A]
The (very) thin face just right of Rock Island. Was the hardest 20 around - still one of the harder 21's about!

First Ascent: Lizette Guest 1993 BB:
RETURN TO THE WOLGAN VALLEY		18 **** [11D,A]
The smooth-looking slab 15m down from Rock Island. Reminded me of a crag in the Blue Mountains near Sydney. Not difficult for the grade.

First Ascent: Clive Curson, Barbara Marcus 1992
ALLEGRO NON TROPPO		19 **** [13D,A]
5m right of RTTWV. This slab is a thin start.

First Ascent: Barbara Curson 1994 BB: Clive Curson
PENDING INVESTIGATION		20 ** [8D,A]
Situated on the road side of the block in front of ANT. Start just left of an offwidth, first rightish, then diagonally up to easier ground left of the boltline.

First Ascent: Clive Curson 1994

The Boulevard

From The Gulley walk down to the last of the routes here and do a u-turn to the road-side cliff (outside of The Gulley). Follow a path for a few metres and look out for ring bolts. This area is North facing and gets very hot in summer but has a few good routes.

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SURF'S UP		19 **** [11D,A]
The left route. A wide variety of unusual moves.

First Ascent: Mike Behr, Glenn Harrison 1995
BILLABONG		21 **** [11D,A]
Starts 5m right of SU, on a small arete. Pull it.

First Ascent: Mike Behr, Glenn Harrison 1995
RIPCURL		23 **** [9D,A]
Start in the corner 3m right of Billabong. Great technical climbing, getting steadily trickier.

First Ascent: Glen Harrison, Mike Behr 1995
COUNTRY FEELING		17 *** [8D,A]
4m right of Rip Curl's corner is a 3-4 cm crack. Climb it to the face above.

First Ascent: Mike Behr 1996
QUICKSILVER		21 ** [7D,A]
6-7 metres right of Rip Curl is another boltline near a block. Climb the face. If you use the block to the right, the route can be 18/19. Ends near the ledge on the right.
First Ascent: Mike Behr 1996
NEW ROUTE		21 ** [8D,A]
The rightmost route, just left of the obvious recess. 3m from the righthand edge of the buttress. Whoose route is it ?
First Ascent: Unknown

The Beach

Go down the Gully. After the large block on your right, you have reached the Beach! Hot temperatures in summer make this area very hot. Some good routes that have nice views doen to the river & road far below.

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GERT'S PROJECT		22R ** [8D,A]
About 10m down from Allegro Non Troppo. Was Gert's project, but...

First Ascent: The masses 1993 BB: Gert Forster
GLOIN		19 *** [9D,A]
Climbs up to the prominent roof crack after the gully.

First Ascent: Gert Forster 1992
RAIN MAN		21R *** [9D,1A]
Start 5m right of Gert's 19. Excellent face climbing. Run out in parts. Most of this Swiss lad's routes seem to follow the bad European tradition, with single lower-off points.

First Ascent: Ralf Tenbrink 1994
MRS DOUBTFIRE		22R *** [8D,1A]
Crack line on the right of Rain Man. A touch runout on the crux -take a Friend 1.5 if you're worried. Easy if you are comfortable at this grade.

First Ascent: Ralf Tenbrink, F Huber 1994
OLD SPICE		25 **** [9D,A]
5m right of Doubtfire. This and the next few routes may be hard at their grades.

First Ascent: Ian Guest 1993
SHRINE OF THE SEA MONKEYS		25 **** [9D,A]
4m right of Old Spice.

First Ascent: Tim Hoole 1993
CASTAWAY		24 **** [9D,A]
Starts up the arete low down. Very long reach to bolt through roof.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1993
CLOCKWORK MONKEY		25 *** [8D,A]
Starts off the platform halfway up the wall 15m right of Castaway.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1993
COMEDY WALTZ		23 *** [8D,A]
Starts 5m right of Clockwork Monkey at the same level.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1993
FRIDAY		23 ** [6D,A]
Climb the left of the pillar, 25m beyond Castaway. Keep right of the third bolt. Fairly challenging at 23! About 19 if you stray far to the left.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1993
SPRING TIDE		23 *** [9D,A]
Up the middle of the pillar. No shortage of bolts.

First Ascent: Ian Guest 1993
BEACH COCKTAIL		16 *** [6D,A]
Climb the right hand edge of the pillar.

First Ascent: B Meinicke 1994
AFRICA TRIP		23R *** [9D,1A]
Starts about 10m right of the pillar, on the main wall. Very lead out with only a single top anchor. A good route, anyone please add another top anchor.

First Ascent: Ralf Tenbrink, R Huber
DASSIEBURGER		22R *** [10D,1A]
5m right of Africa Trip, up the blunt arete. Take care on this badly bolted route with only 1 top anchor.

First Ascent: Ralf Tenbrink 1994
PROJECT		[B]
New line of bolts up the steep buttress right of Dassieburger. Was this ever completed?

Never Never Land

Once on the Island walk left to the North-West end, where you will find a maze of corridors below you. Find the gully leading down on the left (there are several rap points along the front/north face). To get to Operasie Bullie Bief, walk down past the Shiver Me Timbers ledge on your right, past the corridor leading under a huge suspended boulder up to the Wizard and other aretes, right around the front of the buttress, past a narrow corridor (also up to Wizard). Where another wide corridor goes steeply back up into the maze, THFLG is the arete on your right, OBB is the crack up the wall in front and right of you. If approaching from the Beach, walk 50m along the path from the Spring Tide Pillar OBB is up the wide corridor, through the wall on your left. This area is mostly shaded all day, scramble around with care in this area.

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OPERASIE BULLIE BIEF		23 *** [8D,A]
Shocking-looking off-width; awesome when laybacked.

First Ascent: Ian Guest 1994
THANK HEAVEN FOR LITTLE GIRLS		23 *** [5D]
The steep left-leaning arete opposite the offwidth (same level). Climb past the last resting place of the old route DAVE. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw. Route needs top anchors.

First Ascent: Doug Ward, Pete Becker 1992
SLICK AND SHINE		21 ** [5D,A]
Offwidth left of FOREVER YOUNG.

First Ascent: Gert Muller 1994
PROJECT		25+ [1B]
The scoop just right of S&S.

First Ascent: 1BB: J Orrock
FOREVER YOUNG		21 *** [8D,A]
The short north-facing wall 10m left of Wizards' arete. Careful not to stand on the smak bonsai growing on the wall slightly to the right!

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, Fran Botha 1992
OVERBOARD		20 [N]
Right leaning diagonal break (1 rock #1). A one move 20.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1992
WIZARDS		24 *** [6D,A]
The arete with a large flattish boulder leaning against it. Lower off hangers on top. It is recommended to pre-clip the first bolt, for climber & belayers sake. Take care some of the bolts are a bit loose, especially the first one.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1992
GUY'S ROUTE		28 ** [7D,A]
The steep and thin slab just right of Wizards' arete. Use Wizard's lower off hangers.

First Ascent: Paul Every 1993 BB: Guy Holwill
SKIRTING THE ISSUE		17 *** [6D,A]
Something different. Straddle the Wizards and Satin Spider aretes till it gets too wide, clipping Satin Spider's bolts to that lower-off. Definitely a size or flexibilty-dependent grade.

First Ascent: Gert Forster 1994
DANCE OF THE SATIN SPIDER		22 *** [6D,A]
The arete opposite Wizards. The 2nd clip has great character. Currently has bolt hangers at the top; draws can be retrieved by scramble or lowering off the Ubolts across the chasm to the south. A challenging and thin 22.

First Ascent: Shelley Carter 1992 BB: Guy Holwill
FAIRY FINGERS		25 *** [5D,A]
This route is opposite Wizards with U-bolts.

First Ascent: ?
KEELHAUL THE RAT		17 [N,2B]
Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, L Waldman 1992
SHIVER ME TIMBERS		18 *** [7D,A]
Starts off the lefthand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arete about 20m right of Wizards. Bolt hangers on top. Exposed belay.

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, Mike Loewe 1992
BLUNT BLADE		22 ** [6D,A]
The bolted face right of the arete and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks (By Hook Or By Crook, Tinkerbell). Look high past the the last bolt for lower off hangers.

First Ascent: Ian Guest? 1994
NO CRACK CROOKING		21 * [5D,A]
Squeezed between Blunt Blade and BHOBC's crack. Uses Blunt Blade's lower off hangers. Probably harder than 21 if you don't use the crack.

First Ascent: Gert Muller 1994
BY HOOK OR BY CROOK		18 **** [2D,A]
The crack in the middle of the west face.

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, Fran Botha 1992
TINKERBELL		13 *** [N]
The crack towards the right of the west face

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1992
PIXIE DUST		14 *** [N]
Immediately right, around the corner from TINKERBELL. Climb grey rippled face.
First Ascent: Simon Larsen 1993
K1		16 * [N,R]
Starts 20m down the slope from SHIVER ME TIMBERS. Climb up just right of the arete to the ledge.
First Ascent: Clive Curzon 1993
K2		17 * [N]
Starts in the middle of the face just right of K1 (facing road).
First Ascent: Clive Curzon 1993
K4		20 ** [N]
From the ledge, climb near the right arete to reach the base of the short crack.
First Ascent: Clive Curzon 1993

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