SACIN - Online Route Guide for Triple Tier Crags

Climb INDEX * The Far Side * The Acid House * The Foundry * He-Man Area * The Gym

This is the obvious rock visible when looking East from The Restaurant or the Campsite. From a break in the fence at the campsite an eroded gaper path leads down to the river. Rough distances are given:

Hole through Campsite fence	0
Junction with path along Restaurant Crag	40
Stream overlook (Gym is down to your right)	210
Round right past waterfall to twin aloe's opposite	400
Too Early For The Sky - Rap bolts	550
Belay station to view Shadow Man	570
Shadow Man Bolts (5m apart on the Time Bomb block)	590
"Incidently" I'm Macho rap bolts	700
Rock Platform (Rap down Smoulder)	760
The next rap chain, down a large corner	790
Chains above "Vol L"ibre	830
Fence	960
Far Side Chains on boulder platform	1000

All the Triple Tier crags except the Gym face northish, so they are in the sun for most of the day. Good winter climbing. Some routes & areas require abseiling.

The Far Side

Visible from afar as a very smooth steep face topped by a huge block. Rap chains take one down from this block. 600m from the Gym. Hot in summer!

.	................................	..............
NEW AGE		25 [8D,A]
Start up the corner crack for 2m, then head up the black streak.

First Ascent: Clive Curson 1996 BB: John Orrock 1994
JOYRIDE		20 * [8D,A]**
Climb the previous crack to the top of the pillar. Step right to a good crack. Climb this to lower offs.

First Ascent: John Orrock 1994

The Acid House

This is the next major face along (eastwards) from The Foundry. There are 2 or 3 sets of chains to rap in from. Also a hot crag in the summer.

.	................................	..............
CUCUMBER ZOO		19+ [?D,A]**
Climb the corner. It's a bit sandy at the top. Harder for midgets.

First Ascent: Douglas ward
NINE INCH NAILS		24 [9D,A]
Climb just right of the big roof and corner on the left of the wall. The route takes three overlaps en route to the top.

First Ascent: Gunther Migeotte 1994
CUT ME SOME SLACK		23 [9D,A]
The line just to the right of NINE INCH NAILS.

First Ascent: Stephan Isabek 1994
LIKE NAILING JELLY TO THE CEILING		25 * [10D,A]**
This shares the first and last bolt with the previous route. Prepare for some extended reaches, especially if you don't bump your head in most doorways.

First Ascent: Stephan Isabek 1994
HALFWAY HOUSE		19 * [8D,A]**
Rap down 5m right of the previous routes, some 15m from the big corner, to a belay above the roof.

First Ascent: Stefan Isebeck 1994
FUNKY ACID TRIP		27 * [9D,A]**
Around the arete and corner - it starts about 5m from the corner.

First Ascent: Doug Ward 1995
ACID ON THE BRAIN		25 * [11D,A]**
Starting about 8m from the corner, climb past 5 bolts. After the roof move slightly left, and head for the top.
First Ascent: Doug Ward Oct 94
MISTER EXCELLENT		25 * [9D,A]**
The route probably is a grade easier for tall persons, and a grade harder for midgets.
First Ascent: Doug Ward Oct 94
THE CANNIBAL PROJECT		27+ * [10D,A]**
Climb the prominent arete left of VOL LIBRE.
First Ascent: You! BB: Gunther Migeotte
DANCES WITH WOMBATS		24 * [11D,A]**
Start 5m below and just to the left of VOL LIBRE. This somewhat runout route shares the last bolt and chains of VOL LIBRE. Please note this route is 28m long. Do not screw up your approach.
First Ascent: Stephan Isabek 1994

The Foundry

About 350m from the river, a rock platform is found slightly down from the escarpment edge. MELTDOWN climbs this, so one can easily use the chains to rap down. There is a tricky scramble (13?) in the corner in the north side of this platform, but this is bad enough going up. Otherwise walk along another 60m where shuts will be found to rap to VOL LIBRE ("Vol L") and the extreme left edge of the ledge. This is 24m rap onto shuts so be careful and tie knots at the end of your ropes! Once again a hot crag best climbed in winter or cooler summer days.

.	................................	..............
VOL LIBRE		21 [12D,A]
Awesome face climbing off the extreme left hand edge of the small subsidiary ledge. Belay off cold shuts.

First Ascent: John Orrock 1994
PROJECT		** [?D,A]
Neat approach march to the headwall seam. Belay off shuts.

First Ascent: BB: John Orrock
KEEP THE FAITH		25 * [9D,A]**
Starts up a steep corner at the left edge of the main ledge area. Mega pump with crux at last move.

First Ascent: Gunther Migeotte 1994
MERCURY REV		25 [10D,A]
Wild pump up mega steep rock just to the right of KEEP THE FAITH's corner.

First Ascent: Tim Hoole 1994
MR JIVE		17 [5D,A]**
On the arete on the lower buttress.

First Ascent: Glen Harrison, Jacques Holland 1994
DR HECKYL		*18 [5D,A]**
Shares bolt 1 and chains with Mr Jive. Stay out of corner.

First Ascent: Jacques Holland, Glen Harrison 1994
THE SURGE PROJECT		26+ [?D,A]

First Ascent: BB:Ian Guest
SMELT		24 * [10D,A]**
Great route with a "go-for-it" crux, about 10m left of the right hand edge of this wall.

First Ascent: Ian Guest 1994
ZOOZANIA		24 * [12D,A]**
Climbs the diagonal to the right of JUMP IN HE FIRE. Take 4 long slings for the roof.
First Ascent: Doug Ward Sept 94
PROJECT		*** [?D]
Pull the roofs left of JUMP IN THE FIRE.
First Ascent: BB: John Orrock?
JUMP IN THE FIRE		22 * [10D,A]
The best 22 at the Restaurant - JO. Actually the second best - CC. A pump on monster holds. If there was such a grade as 22+, this would be first in the queue. Starts at the right hand edge of the main face; goes through the roof along the flake clearly visible from the platform. Exposure moving off the ledge!

First Ascent: John Orrock 1994
COAL MAN		20 [8D,A]**
Starts about 7m south of the rock platform. Climb the slanting crack to the right and pull the roof to chains.

First Ascent: Glenn Harrison 1995 BB: Steve Coleman
COKE STOKER		21 * [6D,A]**
The next 4 routes are on the east face of the Rock Platform. This route starts about 4m from the prominent dihedral. Take your extender arm.

First Ascent: John Orrock Jan 95
SMOULDER		18 * [6D,A]**
Fun route - also very reachy. 6m left of the corner.

First Ascent: John Orrock 1994
SMELTDOWN		17 * [6D,A]**
Starts in a corner about 8m right of a large dihedral. Pull left after a few metres, then up SMOULDER to the chains. This bypasses the obvious fierce reach move.

First Ascent: ?
MELTDOWN		20 [6D,A]
Starts in SMELTDOWN'S corner. Move up then right towards the skyline arete; yard up on growing incuts.

First Ascent: John Orrock 1994
ABROUTE		*17 [N]**
Nowdays people usually rap in using the chains of SMOULDER or SMELTDOWN.
This route follows the abseil line up to the abseil tree (large stamvrug). Start up the right leaning crack and climb it via a tricky layback move before stepping left to a resting point below the small overhang. Climb straight up through the overhang to the tree.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti, Mike Scott 1992
OFFROUTE		*13 [N]**
Start up ABROUTE and then climb the recess on the right.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1993
REFERENDUM		*17 [N]**
Abseil off the big stamvrug and then walk back 40m along the ledge towards The Restaurant. In a corner is a steep, right leaning layback crack. To the left of the corner are two very steep ja cracks, either side of a huge block. Climb the corner crack to the ledge - escape up and leftwards. This line joins the now bolted SMELTDOWN.
First Ascent: Gordon Erens, Russ Dodding 1992
SHIFTING THE GOALPOSTS		17 [N]**
Starts below the 15cm wide corner-crack to the right of the abseil tree. Climb the corner crack for 2m, traverse right across the slab and then gain the ledge up to the right. Ascend the delightful wall above, trending diagonally right to the blocky ledge.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, Gordon Erens 1992
BEAUTY		20 [N]
We are uncertain as to the position of this climb.
1.	Walk left from the abseil point along the ledge to where it ends below an open recess and to the right of a prominent nose 8m up. This point is about 10m above the base of the cliff and 15m to the right of the prominent recess, marked with bird-lime, cutting through the entire height of the cliff. Climb steeply up the corner to where it is possible to move diagonally up left onto the massive blocks on the right-hand side of the nose. Step left and up onto the face above. Move diagonally left onto a ledge. Belay on the left.

2. Make a strenuous take-off from the right hand side of the ledge and continue awkardly up the left slanting crack to where it is possible to step left to a small ledge. Climb up and then move diagonally back right on good hand holds across an exposed face to a line of flakes sloping up left. Climb to the top of this and continue up the steep face above to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti, Mike Scott 1992
CORNEY		15 [N]
We are uncertain as to the position of this route.
The upper part of the climb follows the prominent, clean, right-facing corner about 20m left of the abseil point. Start just right of the prominent overhangs 10m up and climb the crack leading into a left facing corner, which goes through a steep, glossy face to a sloping ledge below the upper corner. Continue up the corner to the top.
First Ascent: Mike Scott, Paul Fatti 1992

He-Man Area

About 250m past the river, you will find U Bolts next to a block - above INCIDENTLY, I'M MACHO & 3 other routes (2 next to the block - 2 more just over the edge.) Rap here and remember you will have to climb one of the routes to get back up again.

.	................................	..............
COTAPAXL		*19 [N]**
Climbs the wall after the little amphitheatre (He Man Area) as you walk away from the river. This route climbs a thin (#1 Rock) size crack up the wall. Traverse left at top to avoid vegetation.
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1991
NEW ROUTE		20+ * [9D,A]**
The leftmost route.

First Ascent: ?
INCIDENTALLY I'M MACHO		19 [10D,A]
Climb the flaky break 5m right of the arete. Step left and climb straight up to the break in the vegetation. Probably the best 19 at the Restaurant.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1991
ACTUALLY YOU'RE A WIMP		22 * [10D,A]
Start with 2 bolts as for INCIDENTLY I'M MACH. Fire straight up the wall to lower-offs. The best 22 at the Restaurant because it's mine!? It's not a hard 22.

First Ascent: Clive Curson Aug 94
IT		22 * [8D,A]**
Clip 3 bolts on AYAW. Trend right into a break. Up to a roof and a bolted friend placement. Up to the loweroff. Retains some of it former fear factor.

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, Stephen King 1991 BB: Clive Curson
SUPER EGO		23 * [9D,A]**
The arete.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1993
THE CAT IN THE HAT		27 [N,2B]**
Approach by scrambling down the chimney behind the 2nd apartment-sized hanging block. Climb the overhanging rock in the small theatre, past two bolts, exiting up the left hand crack.
First Ascent: Richard Lord 1991
SHADOW MAN		26 * [8D,A]**
On the Time Bomb Block. Climb the left hand edge to a single bolt. Another bolt is situated 5m to the right over the middle of the face

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1992
TOO EARLY FOR THE SKY		18 [8D,A]**
Rap down 20m right of SHADOW MAN to a bolt station. Enjoy the view. Climb the route remembering it was rap-bolted - the bolts are not quite where you would want them.

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, Fran Botha 1992

The Gym

To get to most routes, turn right at the stream lookout at the bottom of the steep path that leads down from the campsite. Follow this to the cascades where you can go down into the gully or cross over to get to the routes on the opposite side. Routes usually shaded at least half the day.

.	................................	..............
TROUBLED WATERS		20 * [6D,A]**
This route is most easily reached by turning left at the stream lookout where the path first comes down from the campsite. The path goes down to a plateau next to the river. Cross the river at the lip of the first waterfall. Please be careful - at least one person has fallen off here already. The route is up the little face just on the other side. There are some good holds - separated by hard moves.

First Ascent: Ruth Ferriera 1995
LIKE A BOX OF CHOCOLATES		14 * [9D,A]**
This and the next 2 routes are situated on the east side of the little gorge, directly opposite the stream overlook. Cross the river at the cascades upstream and go a few metres beyond the twin aloes to a clean area of rock with a couple of bolts in it. Descend into the chasm opposite the path down by rapping off the chains, on a separate rope if you want it to stay dry. Take a rucksack for the lead rope. IYWITSD. This route is protected by ringbolts, starting from 2, just above and downstream of the following 2 routes. If you deviate a metre left at the crux, the grade goes down to 11/12 - still fun, though.
First Ascent: Chris Vind 1995 BB: Mike Behr
RUN FOREST RUN		12 [11D,A]
Start from the lower of the belay points on the right. Climb the spotlessly clean wall, exiting left at the top.

First Ascent: Ruth Ferreira Sept 94 Cleaned & Polished By Mike Behr
FOREST GUMP		15 * [14D,A]**
Climb the same spotlessly clean wall, but move rightwards through the small roof. Take all the previous precautions for a happy ending to a great route.

First Ascent: Ruth Ferreira Sept 94 Expedition Scribe: Mike Behr can almost spell
NOTHING IN MODERATION		23 * [6D,A]**
Slab route at the water's edge. Take a toothbrush to clean after rain.

First Ascent: Rachel Kelsey 1994
THE DARK SIDE		22 * [5D,A]**
Another slab route, 3-4m right.

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1993
JUST STICK IT		23 [5D,A]**
Short power face problem, the leftmost in The Gym.
First Ascent: Ian Guest 1994
BOOGER BEING		25 * [5D,A]**
Sustained powerful route up the arete.

First Ascent: Tim Hoole 1994
MONKS IN THE GYM		28 * [4D,A]**
Mega power problem just right of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt.

First Ascent: Guy Holwill 1993
MONKEY MONKEY		19 * [5D,A]**
Route with power start, 3m right of the arete. Burly.

First Ascent: John Orrock 1993
NUNS ON THE RUN		28 * [6D,A]**
Starts just right of MONKEY MONKEY. Thin start.
First Ascent: Ralph Brucher BB: John Orrock
LITHIUM		24 * [5D,A]**
The original route here. About 2-3m left of the gully. Some suggest the grade is 23?

First Ascent: Pete Becker 1992
ANY OBJECTIONS?		19 [7D,A]**
Follows a crack line just left of the gully corner on the right of the face.

First Ascent: Fran Botha 1994

ADD TO REDDIT