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GENERATION GAP |
15 (F2) [N] |
1. |
C/D 4/5 50m Scramble up the descent ridge to the ledge at the start of the third pitches of Drip 'n Drag and Squeeze 'n Squirm. The climb proper starts in the corner to the right of Drip 'n Drag. |
2. |
20m F2 15 Climb the corner for 10m to the overhanging roof. Climb the righthand face (strenuous), moving out to the right after 4m. Climb up 4m and then traverse to the left to a ledge above the overhang. (Peg and nut belays). |
3. |
10m E3 11 Climb diagonally to the left up the corner, moving delicately to the left around the bulge to a ledge with a nut belay. |
4. |
30m E3 11 Climb the chimney above, moving to the left above the chockstone. Move back across the chimney after 3m and continue up the righthand face to a tree belay. |
5. |
10m D 6 Continue up the broken face to the top. |
|
First Ascent: Jun 1973 H Boshoff, J Schooling, K Kroger and D Lubbe.
|
GEMINI |
15 (F2) *** [N] |
The route starts 6m to the left of Toothache on the righthand corner of the descent route. |
|
1. |
30m E2 11 Climb the lefthand side of the nose for 13m then traverse 3m to the right before proceeding straight up to a small ledge with a block belay. There is a beacon 3m higher up. |
2. |
30m F1 13 Traverse 13m diagonally to the left to the foot of a small buttress. |
Climb the crack that separates the "twins" for 15m to reach a stance on top of the |
lefthand "twin". |
3. |
30m F2 15 Traverse 10m diagonally to the left to a corner. Climb 3m to the crux move, which involves a straddle and layback move to break through a small overhang. Climb another 15m in the crack to a tree belay on a ledge. |
4. |
33m D/E 6/7 Pleasant ledge and crack climbing leads to the top. |
|
First Ascent: May 1968 J Mosman, J Vorster, A Klette and K Kroger.
|
SWEET LITTLE MYSTERY |
19 (G1) *** [N] |
Start as for the second pitch of GENERATION GAP (that is: scramble up the first section of The Ramp to the obvious amphitheatre, to below the corner described below). |
|
1. |
16 (F2) 25m Climb to the base of the right-tending corner, which is bordered on its left by an overhanging face. Ascend this until it is possible to step left onto a flat, rectangular ledge. |
2. |
19 (G1) 50m Traverse diagonally up and left to the base of a grassy groove (8m). Ascend this on good gear, keeping slightly left and away from grass (16) until it is possible at 5m to traverse slightly left into the next obvious groove. Climb this with some delicate moves for 8m, until it is possible to step left. Continue straight up face for 15m to the base of a short hand crack. Climb this and then traverse left to make a stance. |
|
Note: The first sections of both these pitches are common with the first sections of pitches 2 and 3 of GENERATION GAP. |
First Ascent: 1996 Mark Seuring, Claire Keeton. |
IDEM DOLE |
17 (F3) [N] |
This route is situated between Gemini and Toothache and starts 2m to the right of Gemini. "Idem Dole" is Slovak for "I'm falling off!". |
|
1. |
26m E3 11 Climb straight up, following the line of least resistance along a rib, to sloping platform with a beacon. |
2. |
24m F3 17 From the beacon climb the face directly above. Traverse diagonally to the left for 4m to the bottom of a small recess. (This route is at present blocked by a huge hornets nest on the crux move). Alternative: From the stance of pitch 1 traverse diagonally to the left for 6m to the recess on GEMINI. Climb up 1m to the right of the vertical crack to reach a loose-looking yet solid "letterbox" then proceed 5m to the right (F3 17) to the edge of a block and continue into the recess. Climb 5m up the recess, then traverse to the left to the edge of the block. Ascend 3m then continue slightly to the left or right and finally up to a platform. |
3. |
20m F2 15 Traverse to the lefthand side of the platform, climb 3m up the recess then traverse to the left into a small recess topped by an overhang. Turn the overhang utilizing a small horizontal crack. Follow broken rock to a small ledge. Move diagonally to the right onto a bigger ledge with a beaconed stance. |
4. |
33m F2 15 From the lefthand side of the ledge traverse 2m to the left, then climb 10m straight up to a small stance. Follow the line of least resistance on rock that becomes less severe to the top. |
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First Ascent: Feb 1969 J Pipich and K Kroger.
|
TOOTHACHE |
17 (F3) *** [N] |
This climb is situated on the lefthand side of the west face 6m to the right of the descent ramp. A prominent "open book" halfway up, with a "tooth" 16m high in it, forms the main feature of the route. |
|
1. |
33m F2 16 Climb a small crack by-passing the overhang on the left. Continue up the steep face, keeping a little to the left for 13m then move over to the right at the grassy patch. Continue up the small crack to a stance and piton belay. |
2. |
30m F2 16 Move to the left and continue over a series of blocks and a small overhanging bulge to the base of the "tooth". Climb the lefthand crack for 10m then traverse to the right across the tooth and into the righthand crack. Climb up to a narrow ledge. The 5m to the top is the most difficult part; using sloping handholds at the top straddle up as far as possible and then mantleshelf onto the top of the tooth. There is a block and chockstone belay. |
3. |
30m F3 17 Climb the lefthand crack for 3m, using small footholds to a narrow ledge where it is possible to rest. Layback for 6m and climb over the bulge to the left at the overhang onto a ledge. Continue over a series of blocks to a smooth face with good handholds on top. Continue 6m up to the stance on a platform. |
4. |
40m D/E 7/8 Take the line of least resistance to the top. |
|
Alternative - |
3. |
30m G1 18 Climb straight up the corner above the tooth, pulling through the small roof. Climb the left wall above up to a ledge. |
Scramble to top. |
|
First Ascent: May 1968 K Kroger, K Dauter, E Meyer and D Lubbe.
Alternative: Jan 1985 C Edelstein and S Brown.
|
TOOTHPASTE |
16 (F2) [N] |
This climb is pasted next to Toothache. |
|
1. |
30m F2 15 Start up the crack just to the left of McFats LGP and climb it until it is possible to traverse to the left to the first stance of Gemini. |
2. |
30m F2+ 16 Climb the corner to the right of the stance for a few metres (towards the tooth) then move diagonally up to the left on the steep wall to the corner of the arete on the left of Toothache. Climb up a few feet, make a difficult move into a shallow corner on the right and then continue up to a large ledge. |
3. |
15m F1 13 Climb the lefthand wall to a large platform in the recess. |
4. |
40m F2 15 Climb the wall to the left of the zig-zag crack. Move into the crack at half height and continue to the top. |
|
Variation - |
4. |
40m F2 15 Climb the zig-zag crack from bottom to top. |
|
First Ascent: Mar 1974 J Linke, T Hoy and J Bullock.
|
THE MANGLER |
21 (G2) [N] |
A steep open-book recess which faces the big pool is situated about halfway up the lefthand corner of the main Wilgepoort cliff. The route takes the overhanging jam-crack in the lefthand wall of this recess. On the ball routefinders will notice that THE MANGLER lies between TOOTHACHE & MCFATS LGP. |
|
1. |
17 (F2) 20m Starting to the left of a smooth gash at the base of the cliff, climb the face to reach an open cubbyhole stance about 10m below the steep open-book recess. |
2. |
20 (G2) 20m Climb easy rock for a few metres, into the base of a shorter corner. Move up this, then right (tricky) onto a steep slab. Climb the jam-crack (strenuous), moving out right at the top to a blocky stance (shared with MCFATS LGP). |
3. |
18 (F3) 35m Climb up leftwards to the skyline, and then climb the small open book on the left of the obvious nose. Continue over easier rock to the foot of a left-facing wall. Climb the break 1-2m in from the righthand edge of the wall. |
|
First Ascent: Feb 1980 Kevin Smith, Andrew Smith, Michelle Mears
|
MCFAT'S LGP |
19 (G1) ***** [N] |
Start at the foot of the shallow crack 10m to the right of Toothache. |
1. |
25m F2 16 Climb the crack, making a small detour to the right at 10m, to a ledge below the overhangs. (Peg belay). |
2. |
25m G1 19 Traverse 5m to the right to the base of a prominent crack system leading up to a small cubbyhole in the overhangs. Continue up the recess above for 3m before traversing delicately to the left and climbing up to a small ledge. |
3. |
40m G1 19 Climb the steep jamming crack immediately above the stance to easier rock at 10m. Continue up to a big ledge, step to the right past the tree and then climb the recess above to a stance and tree belay. |
Scramble to top. |
|
Note: Pitch 2 opened on aid. |
|
First Ascent: Aug 1971 P Fatti and A McGarr.
|
ROCKIN ME GENTLY |
20 (G2) [N] |
This is a very direct route varying not more than a metre or two over its extent. To the left of the main fault in the middle of the cliff one encounters a deep off-width crack at ground level. Corpuscle takes the jam-crack 6m to the left of this off-width crack. Start a few metres to the left of the start of Corpuscle. |
|
1. |
17 (F3) 25m Climb easily diagonally left for 10m, ascend steep rock on buttress 3m to the left of Corpuscle's jam crack. Continue up thin crack to ledge below overhangs. |
2. |
20 (G2) 30m Climb overhanging face (high handholds) one metre to the right of the overhanging Corpuscle crack. Move slightly left after 5m to a resting point. (Corpuscle moves left across the slab at this point). Directly above is an overhanging hand-jamming crack, climb this strenuously; where the crack ends move up and gain a narrow ledge with difficulty on the left. Above is a small overhang, step right and climb recess to just below another overhang, move left onto arete and climb through break onto large ledge. |
3. |
16 (F2) 20m Directly behind the stance is a steep jamming crack. Climb this for 10m, pull through left of overhang and climb easier rock to large ledge. |
Scramble to top. |
|
First Ascent: Jan 1981 John Brown and Campbell Cairns.
|
CORPUSCLE |
19 (G1) **** [N] |
In the Mountain Club one finds a number of lean specimens of the species Homo Sapiens. When one day one of these claimed that he could alleviate this condition, he was warned that for every extra pound of fat one requires an extra mile of corpuscles. Perplexed faces followed. Both climbers agreed that they had left a mile of corpuscles on the second pitch, but were still doubtful about fat. Eventually everybody decided that our fat expert meant an "extra mile of capillaries". |
To the left of the big main fault at Wilgepoort. The base of the rock has its furthest cut-back (except for the sides). In the centre of this concave cut-back is a shallow chimney left of which is a grey face followed by a 20m long crack whose horrifying feature is an overhanging open book. Start climbing from the tree growing directly at the base of the rock and beside this crack. |
|
1. |
25m F3 17 Climb the crack to ledge below overhangs. |
2. |
30m G1 19 Climb the overhanging crack behind stance (next jamming crack right from McFat's LGP) for 5m, step left across slab towards recess, then surmount overhang upwards to the left to a small narrow ledge. Traverse left into crack of McFat's LGP and immediately back diagonally right into a recess and crack. Climb crack to where it becomes overhanging, move right onto buttress to a large ledge. |
3. |
25m F2+ 16 Traverse left for 5m on ledge (crossing McFats LGP) climb righthand edge of arete for approximately 5m then ascend a shallow groove. From near the top of this groove, step left into crack and climb to large ledge. |
Climb and scramble to the top. |
|
First Ascent: Aug 1975 E Druschke and J Linke.
|
VAN DER MERWE'S CRACK |
17 (F3) **** [N] |
This climb starts about 35m to the right of Toothache and 16m to the right of a rockdrip. The start is at the base of a recess containing a noticeable dead tree. The climb takes a very direct line from base to top of crag. |
|
1. |
43m F1/E3 12 Move straight up the bulge immediately right of the recess. |
Continue up a sloping ramp to a crack system. Follow the crack system to the |
right and then move left into a grassy recess. Continue up the grassy recess until |
one can move left 2m to the base of a prominent crack system with a tree belay. |
2. |
35m F3 17 Climb the off-width crack, about 7m to the left of the conspicuous large open book, and itself situated in the corner of a small open book. The crack initially comprises a closely spaced dual-crack which eventually forms a single crack further up. Continue past a ledge with a tree on the lefthand side and remain in the crack until a small sloping exposed ledge is gained. Good tree belay. |
3. |
25m F3 17 Climb through the tree above the belay and follow crack to an overhang. Move to the right of the overhang and make an awkward move (crux) onto the bulge. Mantleshelf up and make a delicate traverse 2m left to a recess which is followed to a tree belay. |
Scramble to top. |
|
Variation - |
3. |
An easier route may followed up a grassy recess to the right of the bulge. |
|
Note: This is a superb and direct line with good protection. |
|
First Ascent: Feb 1984 M V Richter, N Margetts, L J Richter and D Margetts
|
HANEPOOT |
17 (F3) [N] |
Start 3m to the left of the main fault in the middle of the cliff. |
|
1. |
25m F2 15 Climb diagonally to the left for 15m to the base of a chimney. Climb the corner on the right to a ledge under the main overhangs. |
2. |
20m F2 15 Traverse 3m to the right from the extreme righthand edge of the ledge. Negotiate the bulge to gain a standing ledge above it. Move up to a small stance in the chimney on the right. |
3. |
35m F3 17 Chimney up to the overhang. Move to the left to the base of the chimney crack. Climb this to a ledge on the left. Move up to the left of the overhang blocking the chimney until it is possible to traverse across it to the right. Climb up to a tree,then to the ledge and thence up to a broad ledge. |
4. |
30m F1 13 Move to the left and climb a big recess with a preliminary bulge. Climb diagonally to the right to a stance. |
5. |
45m D/E 7 Climb faces to the top. |
|
First Ascent: Sep 1974 H Boshoff, G Graafland and C Malherbe.
|
VINTAGE 48 |
21 *** [N] |
Start as for Hanepoot, but instead climb straight up the prominent overhanging off-width crack. (Wet at certain times of the year). |
|
1. |
30m G1 19 Climb the crack strenuously for 8m, stepping out left. Continue up the crack to the huge blocks under the next overhang. Step carefully on to the bigger block to gain access to the narrow chimney above. Climb this for about 6m to a small stance in acubby-hole. (Common with the second stance of Hanepoot). |
2. |
30m G2 21 Climb to the top of the cubby-hole and step right below the overhang. Climb steeply up and right to reach the second of two small layback holds which is used to pull through the overhang on to the steep rock above. Continue steeply for another 3m on rounded holds and then traverse right to where the angle eases. Climb up on the corner for a few metres, step left awkwardly pst a bulge and continue up the steep crack to a ledge and tree. |
3. |
30m E3 12 Continue up the obvious line to the top. |
|
Note: On the first ascent, a rather devious line was followed to avoid the crux section of pitch 2. The pitch as described was opened by Paul and Gordon about two years later. |
First Ascent: Nov 1991 P Fatti and G Erens. |
MADEIRA |
16 (F2) [N] |
The climb follows the prominent crack in the centre of the krans. |
|
1. |
30m E3 11 Start in the gully and climb some wet mossy rock to a block and tree belay. |
2. |
50m E3 11 Continue up the gully into the chimney to a block belay 10m below the roof of the chimney. |
3. |
30m F2 16 Straddle up to the roof of the chimney. Move out under the roof on smooth faces (strenuous for short persons),using the furthest wall (after passing the Fang) for the feet. Move up into a chimneying position until it is possible to gain footholds on the back wall. Climb up for 8m to a stance behind some bushes. |
4. |
40m E3 11 Climb the crack for 18m to a large tree in a corner. Step across to the right above the tree and climb the wall to a platform and beacon. |
|
First Ascent: Feb 1968 K Kroger, A Koster, E Meyer and D Lubbe.
|
WISE CRACK |
21 (G2) [N] |
One third of the way up the main Madeira crack/chimney is a thin finger-lock crack which starts on the righthand retaining wall. |
|
1. |
25m G2 21 Climb the crack through a few small breaks to a small roof where the crack narrows considerably. Ascend to a small ledge and continue up the finger crack to a good ledge. |
2. |
10m F2+ 16 Move right and onto a face and ascend to a large tree. |
|
First Ascent: Sep 1985 P Schlotfeldt and R Dodding.
|
CONTINENTAL |
16 (F2) [N] |
The route starts a few metres to the left of Sesame and Madeira halfway up. |
|
1. |
30m E3 11 Two large trees block the foot of the first deep crack to the right of Madeira. Climb past the trees in the crack, pull up on to the overhanging slab and climb out to the right on to the face. Continue over some large boulders to a bushy stance shared with Madeira. |
2. |
17m D 6 Climb the ridge and gully to tree. This pitch follows roughly the same line as a portion of the second pitch of Madeira. |
3. |
36m F2 16 Traverse to the left into a corner, step across the gap on to a ledge and climb up diagonally to the left into the corner. Climb the face for 7m until one is level with a big block around the corner to the left. Move to the left around corner on to a block. Climb the lefthand wall, move onto a corner to the left and continue up to a small stance below a tree. |
4. |
17m D/E 7 Climb a face to the right of the tree to an overhang, then move to the left into a gully and ascend to a large platform. |
5. |
33m E2 9 Climb the ridge to the left and continue up to the top. |
|
First Ascent: Nov 1968 J Pupich, P Solar and E & D Lubbe.
|
SESAME |
14 (F1) [N] |
The route starts on a diagonal slab 16m to the right of the main fault in the krans. |
|
1. |
30m E3 10 Climb the slab, move into the crack and then continue to the left, over a large block behind a tree. From the top of the block move over the face and diagonally to the left to a cubbyhole. Climb to the left, around a corner, to a tree belay. |
2. |
33m F1 14 Proceed up a gully to big tree below chimney. From the tree climb straight up the lefthand face to a ledge.Climb the face on good handholds and straddle on to the face on the left. Move up 3m to a small ledge and belay point. |
3. |
26m F1 14 Step off the lefthand side of the ledge and climb up on awkward holds until it is possible to continue diagonally to the right. Continue up on the corner to a ledge with a tree. Climb a crack above the tree to reach a broad ledge, where a beacon will be found. |
4. |
40m E2 8 Move 5m to the left and take the first obvious crack, which is climbed for 10m. Take the line of least resistance to the top. |
|
First Ascent: Aug 1966 J du Plessis and D Lubbe.
|
C'EST L'ESCALADE |
25 (H2) [N] |
This route climbs a crack system up the obvious steep wall to the right of Madeira. Scramble up to a ledge and small tree at the base of the wall. |
|
1. |
25 (H2) 25m Climb diagonally right to the right arete. Move up the arete about 3m, then traverse left onto the wall to gain the crack just above a gentle bulge. Climb the crack and left-trending rail to a sloping ledge. Climb the final crack to a flat ledge and piton. |
|
First Ascent: Oct 1988 KM Smith |
BOTTLENECK BULGE |
16 (F2) **** [N] |
The route is situated in the crack just to the right of Sesame. |
|
1. |
33m E3 11 Climb 13m up the crack, move to the left underneath a large loose boulder, then continue up in a recess by means of some off-balance moves to a ledge and tree belay. |
2. |
33m E3 11 Continue up the face over some broad ledges until the crack used by Madeira is reached. Move out to the right at a large tree on the ledge, climb over the face to a narrow ledge, then continue along the ledge to the right until it is possible to move up to a bigger ledge and a small tree. |
3. |
40m F2+ 16 Move to the right on to a corner. Climb 2m to reach a high handrail, then proceed around to the right and traverse to a big block. Climb the prominent crack to a small cubbyhole halfway up. Either continue up the crack, which widens into a narrow chimney, or move to the left onto the face and climb it to bypass the overhang. Ascend a narrow slope, keeping diagonally to the right, to a ledge. Climb the vertical face for 7m before moving around the bulge on the left to the face, which is climbed to a good ledge. Move a few metres to the right to reach a bigger ledge and tree belay that is shared with Muscadel Crack. |
4. |
13m F2 14 Climb the crack behind the tree (overhanging start) to a big tree at the top (beacon). |
|
|
First Ascent: Aug 1968 K Kroger, D Steenkamp and E & D Lubbe.
|
MUSCADEL CRACK |
17 (F3) *** [N] |
The route starts to the right of Sesame where the rock forms a crack above a small overhang 10m up. |
|
1. |
30m F3 17 Climb the face to the small overhang. Using a balance press-up move diagonally to the right onto the face above the overhang and continue up to the crack. Climb 3m up the crack before moving out to the left onto a steep face. Climb 3m up the face then execute a tricky move on very small footholds to the right, back into the crack. Continue up the crack to a small ledge and chockstone belay. |
2. |
33m F1 13 Climb up a series of blocks, keeping slightly to the right, until a corner is reached with an overhang at the top. A narrow slit on the righthand wall provides a way up onto the next block. Continue up a series of cracks onto a large boulder with a piton and nut-runner belay. |
3. |
25m F2 15 Continue directly up the crack for 13m keeping slightly to the left at the top, to a platform with some loose blocks. From here, traverse to the right into a corner. Continue the traverse, using friction footholds, until it is possible to swing onto a ledge. Ascend 3m to a broader ledge and piton belay. |
4. |
33m F3 17 Move up into the narrow crack in the middle of the wall (the first 5m is strenuous) and continue past the first bulge to a comfortable position in the chimney like crack. (Alternatively, traverse to the right along the ledge around a corner, climb 3m and then traverse back to the left into the chimney along a small ledge). Continue up the wide crack to its very top. Using small footholds and a good handhold above the overhang, step over (or swing) to the left onto the corner ridge. Climb diagonally up to the left around a corner to a platform and tree belay. |
5. |
16m F1+ 14 Traverse back to the right into the corner to the base of a prominent crack. Climb the crack to top. |
|
First Ascent: Apr 1968 K Kroger and D Lubbe.
|
JESD |
19 (G1) ** [N] |
The intention was to do a quick warm-up, but things never turn out as one expects them and the whole thing turned into a swinging dilemma. The climb starts on the face below Bottleneck Bulge and continues more or less on the arete to the left of this climb. |
|
1. |
35m F2 15 Start just to the left of a bottomless pillar. Climb into the open book and traverse right, climb pillar for about 2m and then return into the crack to the left. Climb crack, then up an open-book and finally bearing slightly left make a stance on a small ledge. |
2. |
20m F2+ 16 Climb up wall and cracks to the left of the stance (passing some loose rock) and continue up the arete and finally traverse right to a stance on a huge block from where the prominent crack of Bottleneck Bulge starts. |
3. |
25m G1 19 Go back left to the arete and climb a crack running slightly right until a ledge is reached. Move left along the ledge then over two more ledges, step right to a crack and climb this until a small off-balance ledge is reached (piton in place). Make an awkward handtraverse to the left, to a good ledge to the left of the arete. |
4. |
15m F3 17 Climb wall behind stance about 2m left of arete (thin), move onto block and continue up crack slanting to the right. |
|
Note: Pitches 3 and 4 are sparsely protected. |
|
First Ascent: Jul 1977 J Linke and E Druschke.
|
THE GRIPS OF WRATH |
21 (G2/3) *** [N] |
Start 2m left of CABERNET, below the slabby wall between that route and MUSCADEL. |
|
1. |
21 (G2/G3) 25m Starting in the middle of the wall, climb up the centre of it to below the stepped overlap at 10m. (Side runners available in CABERNET to protect the middle third of the wall). Climb boldly through the overlap at a small white left-facing corner (crux). Follow a thin crack system up the wall above until able to tarverse right to the rap bolts. |
Lovely stuff. |
First Ascent: May 1995 Russ Dodding (after an original idea by Gordon Erens) |
CABERNET |
18 (F3) *** [N] |
Start approximately 20m to the left of the perennial drip, between Muscadel Crack and The Key. |
|
1. |
40m F3 17 Climb the hand-jam crack to a small overhang 10m up. Bypass the overhang on the right, climb up and diagonally to the left, crossing the crack and then move straight up to a small platform. Climb diagonally back up to the right, recrossing the crack to easier ground. |
2. |
40m F3+ 18 Scramble up to the obvious crack in the prominent long recess between Muscadel Crack and The Key. Climb the crack past an awkward bulge. Continue up the crack all the way up to the third stance of Muscadel Crack. |
3. |
10m C/D 5 Traverse to the right, descend a little and move around the corner to a tree belay. |
4. |
25m E3 11 Climb the broken face just to the right of the rib on the skyline to a cubbyhole. Move to the left and up through a gap between two protruding ribs to a stance. |
|
First Ascent: Jun 1974 H Graafland and H Boshoff.
|
WITBLITZ |
22 (G3) **** [N] |
Start 4m right of CABERNET, ie. left of the corner taken by THAT FURRY THING. There is a 30cm overlap 4m up. |
|
1. |
22 (G3) 30m Boulder-out the start, to gain a cubic block at the right hand end of the overlap. Traverse daintily below the overlap and layback around its left hand end to gain a footledge above. Climb up and then trend left (a bit run out), to gain easier ground above (and gear!). Diagonally up to the right is an overhanging, left-facing corner. Gain this and climb it strenuously and deviously to exit onto a small slab (crux). Gain the rib up on the right and continue more easily for 10m to a ledge with many cubic blocks. An excellent pitch. |
2. |
19 (G1) 25m Twelve metres above and slightly to the left is a short, white, right facing corner, (approximately 5m left of the main corner-crack taken by CABERNET). Gain the corner, exit leftwards awkwardly past the roof and then follow the blocky, broad arete for 10m to a small stance below a black left-facing corner-crack. (This stance is crossed by the 3rd pitch of MUSCADEL). |
3. |
20 (G2) 45m Follow the steep corner above directly for 10m. At the point that the crack closes, swing out to the right arete (the corner goes direct, also at 20); a short corner on the right allows a ledge above the main corner to be gained. Above this ledge the line continues as an off-width crack; circumnavigate this by climbing the crack in the right hand corner and then regaining the crack up to the left, in an exposed position. Follow the crack more easily to a blocky ledge and finish up the left facing corner directly below the tree (the last 5m common with BOTTLENECK BULGE). Alternatively , climb the short wall left of the corner, at 20. Another great pitch. |
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Variation: |
1. |
22 (G3) 30m The Mantle-Piece : Starting 5m left of the original start, that is 2m right of the CABERNET crack, climb up to below a 150cm wide ledge at 5m (under protected). Gain the ledge by an obvious move at grade 21 (G2), traverse right and hence re-join the original route at the end of the initial delicate traverse. Aesthetically pleasing. |
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Note: A long-overlooked eliminate in the British tradition. Bring a strong set of fingers. |
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First Ascent: Oct 1993 Paul Fatti, Russ Dodding, Gordon Erens
Variation to pitch 1 : 1995 Russ Dodding |
CRANKENSTEIN |
23 (H1) *** [N] |
Takes the large, steep left-facing pink corner to the right of the corner taken by the first pitch of WITBLITZ. Start below the corner in a short, ie 2 metres left of the main arete (which is climbed by THAT FURRY THING). |
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1. |
23 (H1) 25m Climb on to a ledge on the right; step left and follow firstly a rib and then a corner on the left to below the main corner. Climb this with increasing difficulty, to a rest (of sorts) below the roof. Crank easily through this using the blocks on the right and the jam crack on the left. Amble up to the rap bolts (a further 6m). |
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Notes : Gear on the crux is good. Climbed with pre-placed gear on the first ascent. |
First Ascent: May 1995 Russ Dodding |
THAT FURRY THING |
21 (G2) [N] |
Start 3m left of The Key. |
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1. |
25m G2 21 Start in a corner just left of the arete which is left of The Key. At about 10m climb diagonally right onto the right wall of the corner. Gain a wide crack which leads through roofs. From a shake-out under a roof move right and up to a stance. |
2. |
20m F3 17 Climb straight up to the stance below the crux pitch of The Key. |
3. |
25m G2 20 Start up the book which is Some Like It Hot's top pitch. Traverse right into a small corner and climb this to a small tree on a ledge. |
4. |
40m F1 13 Climb up to easy ground. |
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First Ascent: May 1984 T Holt and C Lomax (with rests).
FFA June 87 G Mallory and C Edelstein.
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THE KEY |
21 (G3) ***** [N] |
In the centre of the crag there are two prominent open books. The righthand one is bounded by a steep smooth wall; immediately to the right again, at halfway height, there is a short open book to the left of the large overhangs. The route gains the tree at the foot of this by ascending the wall below, then ascends the thin crack in the lefthand wall and continues almost directly to the top. Start 10m to the left of the water drip and immediately below the tree in the short open book. |
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1. |
20m F3 17 Ascend the deep jamming crack for 5m then step to the right and climb up into a recess below an overhang. Traverse to the right (peg runner) for 5m and make an awkward step across a shallow groove, then climb up and to the right to a small stance and peg belay in the corner. |
2. |
10m G1 19 Move to the left and gain the slab. Move up to the left (awkward), then climb down to a good foothold just above the overhang. Move up and across to stance. |
3. |
20m F3 17 Climb the recess behind (5m), then climb up to the left to a detached block. Move to the left around the arete (5m below the small overhang) and continue up to a small stance at the foot of a short steep groove. |
4. |
6m F3 17 Climb the righthand wall of the groove and move across to a belay just above the tree. |
5. |
10m G3 21 Traverse to the left to the arete and follow the crack up and to the right where it steepens. Climb up to a good small stance and belay. |
6. |
10m G2 20 Move a few metres up to the crack and climb to where the crack widens, then make strenuous moves up to the top. |
7. |
43m E2 10 Move around the arete on the left to a detached block, then proceed up and to the right on a ramp to the base of vertical cracks. Climb these to a recess below the final overhang, then follow the recess to the top. |
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Variations - |
1 and 2 26m G1 19 Climb the jamming crack mentioned in pitch 1 and then climb straight up pulling through a roof to the cubbyhole stance at the top of pitch 2. |
3 and 4 23m F3+ 18 Follow the recess mentioned in pitch 3 and continue straight up, moving slightly left to the stance. |
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First Ascent: Aug 1968 T Barley and J Anderson (Pitch 1 G1,M0 (one point of aid), Pitch 5 F3,M1 (three points) and Pitch 6 F3,M1 (five points))
FFA May 1982 K Smith.
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DANCING ON A HIGHWIRE |
24 (H2) [N] |
The hand-crack through the middle of the 3-metre roof 45m above the drip. Start 10m left of the drip. |
1. |
17 (F3) 20m Climb more or less straight up to stance in a hidden square recess just above a square blocky roof. (First 10m as for The Key, and stance is at the top of pitch 2 of The Key). |
2. |
21 (G2) 15m Traverse 5m right from the stance to a crack and climb this to a vague stance. |
3. |
22 (G3) 15m Follow the crack-line to just below and left of the roof-crack. Make a tricky move right and stance beneath the roof. (Let It Be traverses out right from here). |
4. |
24 (H2) 8m Climb the roof crack and stance on a pleasant ledge up to the left. |
5. |
10 (E2) 45m Scramble to top of the crag. |
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First Ascent: Nov 1985 K M Smith with G Mallory and C Edelstein on pitches 1-3.
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SOME LIKE IT HOT |
20 (G2) **** [N] |
On a hot summer's afternoon two climbers were dripping just as much as the famous Wilgepoort waterdrip just below. In the winter the gradings may not seem to be quite so severe. |
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1. |
15m F2 16 Start immediately left of the waterdrip up a shallow groove and up to a small ledge (first stance of The Key). Move to right around corner to tree belay. |
2. |
18m G2 20 Climb the crack to below overhang, then climb up the crack to below large overhang and move right onto ledge and piton belay. |
3. |
25m G1 18 Traverse left 3m, move up flake, traverse left around corner (good protection left in place). Climb up the face for 4m and then traverse across face to tree and up to small ledges. |
4. |
30m G2 20 Climb crack for 5m and continue up into chimney. Climb chimney and crack to large ledge and tree belay. |
5. |
30m F2+ 16 Start at tree and climb crack just to the right of the nose sticking out high up. The middle part of the pitch has an obvious chimney. Delicate crux near top of pitch just right of the nose. |
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First Ascent: Nov 1975 J Linke and E Druschke. (Pitch 2 F3,M1 and Pitch 4 F3,M2 both with 3 points of aid)
FFA 1979 K & A Smith.
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LET IT BE |
19,A2 (G1,M2) [N] |
The climb is situated to the right of The Key and follows a line through the big overhangs directly above the waterdrip. Scramble up the ramp to the right of the waterdrip. The ramp follows diagonally up left to where the rock face steepens. Traverse left into a vegetated recess, up this recess and around the corner to the stance. The stance is immediately above the trees above the waterdrip. |
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1. |
20m F3 17 Climb up shallow recess and crack directly above the stance until small overhang is reached when it becomes possible to step out left and up to block piton stance. |
2. |
25m G1,M2 19 Climb left crack for 5m. Surmount bulging crack (M1). Climb up then follow crack diagonally right and up to roof of big overhang (free and M1). Traverse directly out right under overhang to ledge and stance. (One piton in place - M2). |
3. |
30m F1 13 Climb up directly behind stance to big ledge. Scramble to large tree growing out of rock face in recess. |
4. |
35m F1 13 Ascend recess and follow cracks keeping slightly left and then to the top. |
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Note 1 :Pitch 1 has been climb by various odds and bods. |
Note 2 : A good selection of pitons is advisable including one bong for one move in the lower section of Pitch 2. |
Note 3 : Pitch 2 has been climbed with only one point of aid by K Smith at G3,M1 22/A1 |
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First Ascent: Jul 1975 J Linke and E Druschke.
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GROUP-GROPE |
20 (G2) [N] |
No description available, but it follows the crack system to the left of Shisa and Walking On Air. |
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First Ascent: 1979 D Cheesmond and C Lomax.
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WALKING ON AIR |
20 (G2) [N] |
Starts up deep recess between Group Grope and Gang Bang, that is from the tree where the stretcher and first-aid drum are kept. |
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1. |
18m G2 20 Up recess to below roof, make fancy move out left under roof, continue up crack system past roof until forced 2m left to ledges. |
2. |
30m F3 18 From stance go back right, swing right around corner and up continuation groove (awkward). Climb steep wall above trending slightly to the left. Do not continue up obvious easy break above but rather climb diagonally right to where it is possible to break through the roof using an excellent crack and jugs above. Easier ground leads to stance. |
3. |
30m F2 16 Above are a number of cracks. From the stance climb up lefthand crack until able to move right into good crack system. Climb crack past an off-width move, continue up and break through roofs above. |
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First Ascent: 1986 J Brown, I Slatem and D Young.
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SHISA |
20 (G2) [N] |
Shisa (which means "burn" in Zulu) starts 3m right of LET IT BE, below a crack, after scrambling up the ramp which is situated above the water drip. 15m or so above is a large overhang with a crack through it. This is the roof of GANG BANG or GROUP GROPE. There is a bush marked "F.A." on the topo. (A first pitch can be added if you like.) |
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1. |
35m G2 20 From 2m left of the bush, ascend crack to 3m below the roof (10m) before making a thin move right into the corner and then up to some semi-detached blocks. On the right is a whitish overhanging face split by two rails about 1.5m apart. There is a block in the upper rail which looks like a loaf of bread. Rail round the arete using this block (very psychie). Step right into a good nut crack. Continue up to the black roof, which is split by an off-width crack. A difficult move brings you onto the Reluctance traverse. Move onto the stance. |
2. |
40m F2 16 Continue directly above up the obvious break, tending left at the top. Superb climbing with the odd F2 move. |
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Note: After the handrail on the first pitch it might be necessary to make a hanging belay in the "good nut crack" because of rope drag. |
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First Ascent: Apr 1983 C Edelstein and A Lambert.
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GANG-BANG |
21 (G2) [N] |
No description available, but it follows the crack system to the right of Shisa and Walking On Air. |
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First Ascent: 1979 D Cheesmond and C Lomax.
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RELUCTANCE |
18 (F3) *** [N] |
The start of this route is on the righthand section of the cliffs at the base of a large open-book topped by an overhang. There are two prominent lines of overhangs just to the left of the open book. |
1. |
43m E1 7 Scramble and climb 43m up the line of least resistance to the base of the openbook which is level with a tree. Use nut belays. |
2. |
36m F3 18 Climb the openbook which involves a series of awkward moves, to a bulge in the facing side of the book. Then move to the left and into a bottomless crack that breaks through the first prominent line of overhangs. (A sling was used on the opening ascent but the move has since been done free). Move into the crack and climb up via a good hold in the crack. Climb a further 10m up the crack to a ceiling, then move out to the left and continue up to a stance 6m higher. Use a piton belay in a small cubbyhole. |
3. |
36m F2 16 From the ledge move to the left and proceed up through the second overhang into a crack. Climb the crack and continue diagonally across the face to the left into another chimney. Climb the chimney all the way to a ceiling at the top, move out to the right, then move to the left and proceed onto a stance with a tree belay. |
4. |
24m F1 13 Climb the face immediately behind the stance via an open book. |
Scramble to a belay. |
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First Ascent: Aug 1968 I McLachlan and M Makowski.
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ALL-SPICE |
22 (G3) [N] |
The route follows the corner to the right of Reluctance, capped at half the height of the cliff by a large overhang. |
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1. |
40m F1+ 14 Start at the base of the corner and climb it to a sloping ledge about 3m to the left of the corner. (Nut belays). |
2. |
35m G1 19 Climb up and diagonally back to the right into the corner and continue up to a tiny stance with peg and nut belays immediately below the large overhang. |
3. |
8m G3 22 Move up into the overhang and then traverse to the right with difficulty to a ledge at the base of a chimney. Climb up easily to a good stance in the chimney. |
4. |
45m F2 16 Climb the chimney for 10m to where it becomes more difficult. Traverse 5m to the left and then climb up through a small overhang to where the climbing again becomes more difficult. Traverse 3m to the left under some small overhangs and climb up past them on the left to a large ledge. |
5. |
40m E2 9 Climb the broken face above to another ledge and then continue to the top. |
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First Ascent: Jun 1974 A McGarr and P Fatti (Pitch 3 with one point of aid at F3,M1)
FFA 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.
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AMERICAN WEREWOLF |
22 (G3) *** [N] |
Start as for Tassenberg. |
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1. |
40m G3 22 Climb the corner as for pitch 1 of Tassenberg. Continue up the steep corner above the stance passing two pegs. Climb up to the left sloping roof/crack above and follow it up to a small stance in the base of a chimney/groove. |
2. |
30m G1 19 Swing scarilly around the arete to the right and move right onto a face. Climb straight up the face to the top. |
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First Ascent: 1982 T Holt and L Chambers.
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TASSENBERG |
20 (G2) *** [N] |
The climb goes up the buttress just to the right of All Spice. Start 4m right of the corner which forms the line of All Spice. |
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1. |
30m F3 18 Climb straight up for 15m to a sloping ledge in the corner just above a loose block and just below a steep shallow open book. Straddle up the open book to a small sloping ledge on the right. |
2. |
12m G1 19 Swing around corner to left (underneath or above overhang) and climb up 3m to base of an overhanging off-width crack. Climb crack (strenuous) to ledge and nut belay. |
3. |
18m G2 20 Move right along ledge into crack. Climb crack, moving right at top (4m). Move up into base of chimney to stance on top of large chockstone. |
4. |
20m F3 18 Climb chimney which narrows down and requires some strenuous jamming to large ledge on top of buttress. Either traverse off to the right at this point or continue via the easiest way to the top. |
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Note 1 : Pitch 4 is relatively unprotected. |
Note 2 : The original route description has been amended to match the route as climbed. |
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First Ascent: Jun 1975 A McGarr and P Fatti.
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MATURE WINE |
20 (G2) *** [N] |
A direct line between TASSENBURG and BRAZILIAN BANDIT. Start at the base of a short open book, directly behind a large prominent naboom. |
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1. |
20 (G2) 35m Climb the open book, step left and gain the crack system above and slightly right. Follow this to a disctinct blocky notch in first roof (small chockstone). Climb the groove and layback crack above, then exit right onto a sloping stance beneath the triangular roof. |
2. |
19 (G1) 35m Pull through the roof, on the right and then climb the continuation crack past the left hand side of a small roof, and then up to a large ledge (tree belay). Halfway up this pitch one is within 2m of TASSENBERG'S sinuous top chimney. |
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First Ascent: Jul 1989 Paul Fatti & Russ Dodding |
BRAZILIAN BANDIT |
19 (G1) [N] |
On the right side of the main face at Wilgepoort (i.e. right of Reluctance) is a large buttress. When coming from the waterdrip the start of the climb is found in the first recess, with a large slanting tree growing in it at the bottom of the buttress. The route for the first 25m follows a crack just left from the front edge of the buttress, marked by a tree growing from it. |
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1. |
25m F3 17 From the sloping tree move left and ascend a short face for 5m, then go back right into the crack. Ascend crack past tree and continue for another few metres until it is easier to climb on the left side. Move up to small ledge and a hanging belay (piton). |
2. |
15m G1 19 Move right up and across steep wall (good handhold above) and onto ledge on the front of the buttress. Climb another 10m to good stance. |
3. |
35m F2 15 Climb slabs keeping in a slightly leftward direction, making use of cracks in the upper part of the pitch, finally moving into a 2m V-shaped recess at the top of the pitch. Tree belay. |
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Note: From the top of the first pitch a traverse can be made across a sloping slab, with a horizontal crack in the middle, past a crack, around a corner and then to the first stance of Tassenberg. |
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First Ascent: Nov 1975 E Druschke and J Linke (Pitch 2 F3,M1 one point of aid.)
FFA May 1979 K Smith and C Edelstein.
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COCKROBIN |
16,A2 (F2,M2) [N] |
The climb is situated on the front of the buttress right of the main face of Wilgepoort (i.e. right of Reluctance). Start approximately 5m right of the sloping tree in recess heading for a prominent narrow bottomless chimney. |
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1. |
20m F2,M2 16 Climb right wall then aid climb in corner until it is possible to move into the chimney. Ascend chimney and continue up to good stance and tree belay. |
2. |
30m F2 15 Move up the right wall then the slabs and cracks bearing slightly right until top of ridge is reached. |
3. |
35m F1 13 Move horizontally on left side of ridge to wall. Ascend first crack then traverse left to small tree in next crack. Climb to top. |
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First Ascent: Nov 1975 J Linke and C Ward.
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NABOOM NUISANCE |
13 (F1) [N] |
The climb follows the ridge on the righthand extremity of the krans and starts at the lowest point of the rock wall where the rock almost reaches the river at the crossing point. Apart from the first pitch, which is of F standard and can be passed on the right, the climbing is of D/E standard throughout and follows the line of least resistance to the shoulder below the final rock face. From here a number of variations of different grades may be climbed to the top. |
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First Ascent: May 1968 D Steenkamp, E Meyer and D Lubbe.
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