SACIN - Route Guide for Wonderland

Climb INDEX * Backstage * The God No Wall * The Little Red Wall * Hallucinogenic Wall * The Superbowl * The Left Wings * The Theatre * The Right Wings

The crags in this area are amongst the best at The Restaurant and sport many classic routes. There have unfortunately been a few breakins to cars parked at the old parking next to the road & cliff face.There is now a new parking at the farmer's house. Drive along the Slaaihoek road (left out of Elandskrans resort) and onto the dirt road that leads up the hill. Follow this for almost 5km until you see farm houses on your right. This is about 300m further than the old Hallucinogenic parking. Take the driveway that leads up right to two houses. Follow the driveway through the stone gates which leads to the face brick house, NOT the white house. You can then park up in the right hand corner, under the large trees. There is no charge for the parking and you don't have to report to the farmer, you can just park and walk back to the cliff which takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Cross the road & the fence leading to the cliff edge is the access for God No! Wall.

Backstage

These crags are from the far left upto the God NO! wall. This is a new section of rock to which we have recently gained access thanks to the MCSA. Either access the crag from God NO! leftward or walk along the top until you get to a break where you can scramble down, some of the routes start right here. There is potential for some super hard lines and many moderate ones too. The leftmost section of this crag is called Baboon Buttress.

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NO NAME YET		22 [6D,A]
Starts in a big roof 4m off the gound up a crackline on the Baboon Buttress.
First Ascent: 2002 Mark Seuring

UP IN SMOKE		21 [B,A]
About 3m left of MARIANNE's PROJECT.


MARIANNE'S PROJECT		[B,A]
Project 8m left of UP ALARD'S CRACK.


UP ALARD'S CRACK		17 [10D,A]
If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the gully between God NO! wall and Baboon Buttress.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 2000

The God No Wall

Take the dirt road to the left out of the Elandskraal resort towards Slaaihoek. Follow the road up the hill, you should see the resort and the Restaurant face to your left. See Wonderland description for parking. There is a fence running to the cliff, follow it to the cliff face. There is a scramble about 200m north (left) of this point or you can rap down, take care with this being a high crag of up to 40m in places. The sun leaves the face by late morning.

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ALARD'S PROJECT		28+ [B,A]
Hard project left of God NO! Wall.


ALARD'S MONSTER		30+ [B,A]
Alard's project dubbed "MONSTER" which will be rather hard!


JACK OF ALL TRADES		29 **** [15D,A]
The crackline to the left of the wall, previously 'Slops Project'. This is an excellent 40m route.

First Ascent: Tessa Little 1998 BB Mike Hislop

JABBERWOCKY		33 **** [14D,A]
The route up the middle of the face, one of the hardest lines in SA.

First Ascent: Richard Lord 1993

PROJECT
The IP between JABBERWOCKY & ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK. On 01/01/2000 there were no bolts on this line. This project will become open should no bolts be added!
First Ascent:

ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK		24 **** [17D,A]
Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. About 40m of technical, fun & rather pumpy moves with good exposure.
First Ascent: Marianne Pretorius 1999

BIG BAD WOLF		24 ** [16D,A]
10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is a 35-40m long route.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999

ALICE IN GRANNYLAND		24 [16D,A]
This route is fairly long at almost 40m.
First Ascent: Greg Watkins 1998

The Little Red Wall

Park as for the Wonderland area. Follow the fence which goes to the edge of the crag & rap down 'Jack of All Trades' or walk North (left) to a cairn & take the ill-defined path to the base of the crag. The left fork in this path leads you to Hallucinogenic Wall. Take care not to miss the cairn or you will walk all the way to the right of Hallucenogenic Wall. This crag is just to the right of the God No Wall being a little red wall compared to God No. You can also reach this crag by walking left from Hallucenogenic Wall and taking the ill defined path downward once the HW ends. This crag used to be known as The Disciple Area. Sun leaves this wall by late morning.

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THE DAY OF THE TRIFFIDS		19 [N]
This trad route is between ALICE IN GRANNYLAND & GRANNIE'S COTTAGE. It takes the obvious yellow streak up the middle of the vertical wall - brilliant.

First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz 1998

GOODWILL VAN DIE ZOELOES		21 *** [N]
Start either 4m right of the fig tree, or abseil to the ledge, 3m right of the top branches of the tree. From the ledge (4m off the ground) move left to a thin seam (3m), climb this until it peters out. Continue straight up the black streak to the top.
First Ascent: Ian Manson, G Shepston 1992

GRANNIE'S COTTAGE		25 [8D,A]
This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'.
First Ascent: Matthew Murison 1998 BB Rob Cormak & Chris Vandereyalt

LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD		25 *** [9D,A]
Thin & cruxy near the top.

First Ascent: Tessa Little BB Matthew Murison

THE LOAN ARRANGER		25 * [N]
Trad route just right of LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall, first diagonally right to a thread, then left and up. Hack your way to the top. Don't forget your spade!

First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop 1992

HIM SPEAK WITH FORKED TONGUE		23 [N]
Trad line just right of 'THE LOAN ARRANGER'

First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz 1998

HALONGMAISHLONG		20 *** [B,A]
This line is about 15m right of LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999

Hallucinogenic Wall

Walk as for the God No wall but follow the shorter band of rock at the top rather than decending to the GNW. The short wall increases in height from left to right. About 20m into the forest where the rock is about 16m high you will find Dexters Lab. The crag has sun in the morning until about midday on most climbs and shade for the rest of the day. See Wonderland access for parking.

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RAT PALLACE		21 [9D,A]
A little way along the path appraoching from the left. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost, H. Pringle May 2001

COMFORT ZONE		20 [6D,A]
Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left of Hallucinogenic wall.
First Ascent: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts, A. Grant May 2001

HEY PAPPA		23 [5D,A]
The route is the leftmost line on a small open face about 60m left of DEXTER'S LAB.
It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing.
First Ascent: Albert Smit 2000

OPEN PROJECT
Open project to the left of DEXTER'S LAB.


BAMBOOZLED		26 [9D,A]
About 20m left of DEXTER'S LAB.
First Ascent: 2002 Mark Seuring

DEXTER'S LAB		22 **** [12D,A]
Starts about 20m into the forest from the left. Climbs an off width, layback crack for about 13m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge through an overhang.
First Ascent: Voytek Modrevski 1998

MIKE BEHR'S ROUTE		22 [7D,A]
About 5m left of WICKED.
First Ascent: 2000 Mike Behr & Clive Curzon.

WICKED		26 ** [10D,A]
Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999

DROP KICKED		26 *** [9D,A]
2 Metres right of DROP KICKED.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 2000

FIVE LIVES LEFT		19 [8D,A]
1.5m right of DROP KICKED.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 2000

DUTCH POPCORN		26 *** [12D,A]
Starts 3m right of FIVE LIVES LEFT starting in an overhanging corner and moving right onto the face and then up into the next open book. It finishes on the right. Put your thinking cap on for this route.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999

I JUST CANT BOLT IT		20 [N]

First Ascent: Alard & Mark van Wyk 2000

AD MAIOREM DEI GLORIAM		23 [8D,A]
Also known as AMDG for short. Starts 10m right of DUTCH POPCORN around the corner and 10m left of M&M. It takes a line up the wall through two roofs. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree. The route goes through two roofs.
First Ascent: Dermot Brogan Jan 2000

SNAKESKIN SAFARI SUIT		18 *** [10D,A]
Climb the line of bolts in the right facing corner, left of MOON DANCE, next to a small pinacle.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Greg Devine, Daryyl Margetts, N. McKenzie, D. Chesney

M&M		30 [7D,A]
The climb goes up the thin seam about 8m to the right of AD MAIREM DEI GLORIAM and just to the left of a 7m high pillar. Step right off the pillar at about 3m up onto the face on a good jug. Climb up for 7m on tiny grips to a roof. At the roof traverse left for about 4m to a layback seam. Climb up the seam to the chains. Some consensus grading is requested.
First Ascent: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring Mar 1999

MOONDANCE		20 *** [12D,A]
Climbs the recess about 5m to the right of the M&M box (pillar), for about 15m. Some crack climbing.
First Ascent: Clair Keeton 1999 BB Mark Seuring

ANTS IN YOUR PANTS		28 * [6D,A]
About 20m right of MOONDANCE. Features a crux that can be harder without a huge armspan.
First Ascent: Mark Seuring 1999

ONCE IN A BLUE MOON		19 ** [11D,A]
Start below the chimney in the corner, climb the layback crack to gain the chimney, climb up inside the chimney and make a tricky move to exit the chimney to gain the thin face above, which leads directly up to the chains. The face at the top provides excellent climbing.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999

BLOOD ON THE ROCKS		23+ *** [10D,A]
Goes up and to the left of the arete. (Opened at 21!)
First Ascent: Dylan Morgan

DOOM		18 ** [10D,A]
Start in the middle of the face about 1m left of CENOTAPH CORNER, which starts in the corner, continues diagonally up left to the arete, then up the arete tending up right to the chains above.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999

NEITHER HERE NOR THERE		19 *** [A]
This climb has only been top roped using the chains on DOOM, as it was decided that it would be too contrived with CENOTAPH CORNER to the right and DOOM to the left. However, it is a good climb if you don't move onto these other climbs. The easiest is to climb DOOM to set up the top rope. Start in the middle of the face about 1m left of the corner, as for DOOM, continue straight up the middle of the face avoiding going too far left onto DOOM, to the same chains as DOOM.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999

CENOTAPH CORNER		16 **** [9D,A]
Starts in the corner with a chimney, climb up and out of the chimney and continue up the corner to finish on the chains just to the left.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Jan 1999

OLD CRUSTY'S LAST STAND		18 ** [10D,A]
Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Feb 1999

BE QUICK OR BE DEAD		25 *** [10D,A]
Starts just right of the off width and about 2m to the left of HIGH SPEED DIRT. Climb the face ONLY (don't use the face on the other side of the off width). The first few moves are very balancy. The chains are shared with HIGH SPEED DIRT.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1998

HIGH SPEED DIRT		20/21 **** [11D,A]
Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE, opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top, sharing the same chains as the BE QUICK OR BE DEAD & OLD CRUSTY'S LAST STAND.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1998

WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE		24 **** [9D,A]
Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Dec 1998

CHICS FOR FREE		15 ** [9D,A]
Starts about 10 m around the corner of TECHER'S PET and follows the corner to the top.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Nov 1998

TEACHER'S PET		15 * [8D,A]
Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.
First Ascent: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999

PROJECT		[A]
Steve Broccardos's project between TEACHER'S PET & ZELLWEGER.


ZELLWEGER		17 *** [9D,A]
Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right. These chains can also be reached when coming down from the rap point.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Sep 1998

ZELLWEGER VARIATION		17 *** [9D,A]
Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Sep 1998

THE PALLBEARER		17/18 ** [6D,A]
Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Oct 1998

FISTICUFFS		13 * [5D,A]
Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle, passing the ledge to the top. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Aug 1998

IT'S 13 JIM, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT		15 * [6D,A]
Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Lateral thinking is required for this climb. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1989

ANGEL OF MERCY		16 **** [8D,A]
Start about 3m to the right of THE PALLBEARER at the upside down V shaped flake. The chains cannot be seen from the ground.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Oct 1998

DREAM COME TRUE		19 **** [12D,A]
This climb takes the obvious break between YOU MEAN THAT'S IT (on the right) and ANGEL OF MERCY (on the left) and finishes at 3 chains (one chain is suspect).
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Apr 1999

YOU MEAN THAT'S IT		21 ** [10D,A]
This climb has a technical start and is spoilt by all the large ledges and easy climbing higher up.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Sep 1998

THE WINNEBAGO SMILE		19 ** [N]
We are not sure where this climb fits in, can you help ? Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top.
First Ascent: J Sydow, P Lloyd, Ian Manson 1992

AY MAAR DIE MENS IS N WONDERLLIKE DING		21 ** [N]
Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner - move left to top out. The route name was overheard at the local cafe.
First Ascent: P Lloyd, J Sydow, Ian Manson 1992

WITLESS		25 *** [1B,N]
Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven! With only 1 bolt there may not be too many repeats.
First Ascent: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop 1992

TASK SATURATED		25 **** [11D,A]
Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to the chains.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jun 1999

SANTA'S LITTLE HELPER		20 *** [10D,A]
Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster, Darryl Margetts Oct 1999

REMINISCING		17 [D,A]
This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH. Climb the corner and break out left at the top of the corner to finish at the chains above a large ledge.
First Ascent: Laubie Lauscher, Steve Broccardo, Darryl Margetts on Natural Gear. Retrobolted by Darryl Margetts.

PLEASE DON'T TOUCH		23 *** [9D,A]
This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Start by climbing past a bolt onto a large step, then continue up the south east facing wall to gain the base of a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Feb 1999

DEAD ANT		21/22 **** [10D,A]
This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Apr 1999

WOOD PILE CRACK		17 *** [9D,A]
This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains.
First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash, Darryl Margetts 1999

VARIATION TO WOOD PILE CRACK		17 *** [9D,A]
The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK. Start directly below the chains, climb the face to gain the hand crack and finish as for WOOD PILE CRACK.
First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash, Darryl Margetts 1999

GRAVY TRAIN		15 *** [9D,A]
Climb the knarly face to the right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Darryl Margetts, G Frost & N McKenzie

CAPTAIN HOOK		18 **** [12D,A]
Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN and an abandoned project.
First Ascent: May 2000 Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts on Natural gear. Retrobolted by Tim Wilmot, Darryl Margetts, G.Frost and D. Chesney

THE CLAIREGATE		17 *** [12D,A]
Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book.
First Ascent: Aug 2000 Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts

AUSSIE RULES		17 *** [10D,A]
Goes up the broken looking rock about 8m to the right of TIM'S ROUTE.
First Ascent: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999

PROJECT		[A]
Project by G Frost, D Margetts & H Pringle chains but no bolts ye as of 15/03/2001.


FACE IN THE TROUGH		23 **** [9D,A]
A face climb between AUSSIE RULES & FOREST GLUMP.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts

FOREST GLUMP		14 [10D,A]
The route bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to the left of LINING YOUR POCKETS.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Opened on trad by Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney. Retrobolted by Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney.

LINING YOUR POCKETS		17 *** [9D,A]
Climb the line of bolts to the left of MISSION FROM GLOD. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Darryl Margetts & G Frost

MISSION FROM GLOD		16 [11D,A]
Start in the corner below a the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999

SAND GLOD		16 [12D,A]
This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999

EMANCIPATED SPIDER CHICKS		20 **** [9D,A]
Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 G. Frost & Darryl Margetts

BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM		15 *** [7D,A]
Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S.
First Ascent: On Trad : Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot Retrobolted by G Frost & Darryl Margetts Apr 2000

ROCKY'S		13 [10D,A]
This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999

THE LADDER		13 [13D,A]
Route just left of ROCKY'S.
First Ascent: Oct 2000 On Trad by Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts. Retrobolted by Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney.

The Superbowl

See Wonderland information for access. From the parking you can walk back along the road until you see a small cairn on the right side of the road. You should see a drain going under the road here - a path leads off from here. It takes you to the cliff face where it splits. The path to the right & down will lead you to some hard to find rap points, take care some of the crags are 30m high. The left option takes you to a small cairn which indicates a u-turn in the path which then heads down a steep gully to the crags. You can also walk along the cliff from God No or Hallucinogenic & keep going until you see the cairn & path doing a u-turn down a steep path to the crags. The sun leaves the face by mid-morning. This crag is superb with some real long classics - a must. There are a few bushmen paintings and pottery remains here, please don't remove or deface them.

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FRAZZLE		31 **** [B,A]
Like SNAPDRAGON this is an excellent route. It was once Roger's Project and is 5m left of SNAPDRAGON.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Paul Brouard, Bolted by Roger Nattrass and some by Matt Murison.

SNAPDRAGON		28+ ***** [13D,A]
This is one of the best 28's in SA and offers superb climbing over 30m.

First Ascent: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop 1992

HACK AND SLAY		31 *** [16D,A,R]
Starts 6m right of SNAPDRAGON. Also about 30m in length. The route has a bouldery crux which has been made harder of late with some crux holds breaking off. Rather lead out at the top.

First Ascent: Richard Lord 1994

GIANTS		26 ** [12D,A]
About 15 to 20m right of 'Hack and Slay'. Climb the overlaps to anchors at the huge roof.

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1993

RUDE BUSHMEN		24 **** [15D,A]
This route starts 3m left of 'Lotters Desire'. Short people cheat with some rocks to start the route.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998

LOTTER'S DESIRE		28 **** [11D,A]
This is an excellent climb on what may appear to be a slabby wall but be careful as it is steep. It goes up the right side of the red wall which is a right facing corner. Anchors have been added recently.

First Ascent: 1993 Richard Lord BB Gary Lotter

TUGELA BLUE		27 **** [13D]
About 15m right of LOTTERS DESIRE this route blasts through the roofs heading slightly right. Clipping the 3rd bolt before starting, avoids horrible rope drag. This route overhangs by almost 10m!
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998

SOUL MANDATE		25 **** [11D,A]
About 5m left of MISS MCKINLEY, starting between the fork of the big white tree. A thuggish start leads to some really good climbing above.
First Ascent: Jul 2004 Mark Millar

MISS MCKINLEY		23 *** [9D,A]
Starts just right of the main overhang. The first moves are bouldery. Careful of the tree.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998

STRATA		32 **** [B,A]
Good route with a tough crux higher up. This starts just left of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES.

First Ascent: Paul Brouard April 2001 BB Matthew Murison

TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES		27 **** [8D]
Originally an open project of Martin Seegers. Some good moves to a ledge in a corner and back onto the face to the chains.
First Ascent: Will Watkins Jul 1998 BB Darryl Margetts & Matt Murison

BEEHIVE		12 * [15D,A]
Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.

First Ascent: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts 1996

TREE HOUSE		20 ** [14D,A]
Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine Apr 1996

PARADISE BY THE SEA		27 *** [10D,A]
Takes the steep line just to the right of TREE HOUSE.

First Ascent: Mark Seuring

HALLUCIGENIC TOREADOR		27 *** [13D]
Climbs the line 5m left of SLEEPLESS TAD.

First Ascent: C Nicole Mar 1997 BB Darryl Margetts

SLEEPLESS TAD		22 *** [5D,N]
About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang. Traverse 3m right and ascend corner to ledge. Traverse right to recess, follow to chains.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers 1992

PROJECT		22+

First Ascent: BB Darryl Margetts

CLUB TROPICANA COCONUTS		24 ** [9D,A]
The route is about 3 meters right of the sparsely bolted 22 and about 8 meters left of Glen.
First Ascent: Aug 1999 Sybren van der Leij

GLEN		21 *** [14D,A]
15m right of the tree roots.


First Ascent: Darryl Margetts

INTO THE BLACK		20 ** [15D,A]
Starts 3m right of GLEN. Could actually be a 21.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts 1998

PRECISION FEATHER		21 *** [12D,A]
Starts just right of INTO THE BLACK. Some interesting moves.

First Ascent: Voytek Modrzewski 1998

PENNY ROYAL TEE		17 **** [14D,A]
80-100m right of LOTTER'S DESIRE.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps, Andrew Lynch Mar 1996

TEEN SPIRIT		20 *** [14D?,A]
The climb starts in the offwidth layback crack about 2m to the right of PENNY ROYAL TEE. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.


First Ascent: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts, Dave Chesney 1999

The Left Wings

To get there walk as for the Superbowl and follow the path down the gully. This path splits, take the right, and often poorly-defined path to the left. The routes start about 50m along. Shady after 11h30 or so depending on season.

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HERMAN THE GERMAN		26 ** [10B]
Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

First Ascent: Adam 1994 BB Herman du Plessis

HERMAN'S ROUTE		24 ** [5D,N]
Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.
First Ascent: Herman du Plessis 1992

CHUNKY MONKEY		27 **** [9D,A]
The route is located around the corner, 20m to the right of HERMAN'S ROUTE. It starts at blocks at a prominent roofed arete, with a small roof at about 8m and a large square roof at 12 m. The line follows 7 bolts up this arete, railing out along the lip of the large roof to end on a face at chains.


First Ascent: Mark Seuring Sep 1998

HOUNDS MOUSSE		25 [11D,A]
8m right of CHUNKEY MONKEY.
First Ascent: Axel.

NEW YORK CHOCOLATE FUDGE CRUNCH		18 ** [10D,A]
There is a big corner topped by a roof just right of CHUNKY MONKEY. This route takes the arete right of this corner. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.

First Ascent: Unknown

TRUE BLUE		16 ** [N]
Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.


First Ascent: G Erens, R Dodding, 1992

WYSIWYG		12 * [N]
Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same.


First Ascent: G Erens, R Dodding, 1992

TIM'S PROJECT		28+ [N,A]
Climbs the steep red wall with anchors.
First Ascent: T. Rogers?

HOME ALONE		19 [N]
Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.


First Ascent: G Erens, R Dodding, 1992

ALICE		21 *** [N]
5m left of THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS. Climb the crack for 20m to the top. This is possibly the same route as PUPPET ON A STRING.
First Ascent: C Curson, M Hislop, B Marcus

PUPPET ON A STRING		20 **** [N]
About 50-60m along right from the descent gully is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.

First Ascent: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1991

THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS		20 *** [N]
The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.

First Ascent: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1991

UITERS TORS		21 * [N,R]
Trad route between THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS & ENDLESS OCTOBER. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear.

First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax 1992

The Theatre

Access as for Left Wings. From the descent gully walk northwards (right) for about 150m to the obvious amphitheatre or rap in from the top. Shady from midday.

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ENDLESS OCTOBER		24 **** [9D,A]
At the left end of The Theatre is a raised ledge/block. Scramble up about 8m further along and walk back to the left hand edge. Climb out left and up to the chains.

First Ascent: Grant Murray 1992

SWEET COUSIN COCAINE		25 *** [10D,A]
From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section and a crack to the right of the overlap to a two bolt lower-off. We need verification if there are indeed top anchors on this route ?

First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991

NIGHT OF THE TOAST		23 ** [N,1P]
The obvious crackline on the left of The Theatre, just left of SWEET COUSIN COCAINE.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss 1991

BIKINI RED		27 **** [9D]
Starts 3m right of the obvious crack NIGHT OF THE TOAST.

First Ascent: Mike Hislop 1992

SHUT UP AND DIE LIKE AN AVIATOR		16 ** [N,R]
Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. Very poorly protected.
First Ascent: Mike Hislop 1992

STAGE FRIGHT		20 [N]
Climbs the arete to the choss above. Possibly has anchors ?
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992

CENTRE STAGE		18 [N]
This is the leftmost route on the right wall of The Theatre. Climbs the corner. Fight your way through the choss at the top and avoid killing people below. Possibly has some bolts now.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992

INTO THE NIGHT WE SLIDE		23 ** [N]
Just to the right of the major dihedral in The Theatre, a few metres left of HEART OF CHINA. Sparse gear.

First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss 1991

HEART OF CHINA		23 **** [N,1B,A]
Splits the right half of The Theatre. One of the best lines at The Restaurant, if more stainless steel could be added.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers 1991

GRANT'S PROJECT		28+ **** [8B,A]
The line of 'accidentally' smashed bolts just to the left of HEART OF CHINA'S impressive crack. Face moves with a bouldery crux.
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1992

KINDRED SPIRITS		25 **** [9D]
At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 2nd clip out left). From here crank wildly to the top.
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1992

The Right Wings

Access as for Left Wings. This crag starts about 25m right of 'Kindred Spirits'. Shady in the afternoon.

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STAR GAZERS		17 [N]
Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE, are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. They are 10m apart - the right hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Start below this one. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book. Climb this and exit left.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, M Erens, G Erens 1992

WAITING FOR GOSSIP		23 *** [?D,N]
Climbs the corner to the left of DAMN THE TORPEDOES. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, Chris Lomax & Richard Lord 1992

DAMN THE TORPEDOES		26+ *** [1B,2P,N,A]
Climb the corner 20m left of JOY DIVISION. Great climbing with a single stopper crux.
First Ascent: Mike Hislop 1992

PAUL'S PROJECT		31+ [B]
Project left of JOY DIVISION.
First Ascent: Part bolted by Tessa Little & Danny Pinkas.

JOY DIVISION		29 **** [10D,N]
Climb slightly rightwards up the thin face, until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner. Carry on to the top.

First Ascent: Richard Lord 1992

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