CLIMBING NEWS ARCHIVE 1998/1999
The MDT was developed to established and maintain nationally recognised skills and training standards for the many clubs, organisations and individuals active in mountain related activities. The MDT's Mountain Training Scheme integrates training and assessment in both mountain walking and rock climbing. Training and assessment courses cover all levels of skill from basic mountain walking and rock climbing through to the Mountaineering Instructor Award where the recipient is qualified to lead parties and instruct mountain-craft under all conditions in any of South Africa's mountains. The programme, standards, course syllabi and certification is co-ordinated and controlled by the South African Mountaineering and Training Trust which is a legally constituted body registered with the Master of the Supreme Court. Training and assessment courses are run by individuals approved and accredited by the Trust.
Recently the Trust called for the formation of regional branches to streamline the accreditation process and this has led to the formation of the KwaZulu-Natal Branch and now the Gauteng Branch. The purpose of the Gauteng branch will be to:
1. Call for local applications
for MDT accreditation
2. Arrange for the assessment of applicants in accordance with the MDT standards
3. Maintain a database of the applications and the outcomes of the assessments
4. Promote the MDT accreditation system
The Gauteng branch has set up the necessary structures to manage a local MDT branch and will be ready to commence assessments by 15 January. Logbooks may be submitted in the interim.
The committee members and contact details of the Gauteng Branch are:
Stephen Mallory: firstname.lastname@example.org
Chris Vind: email@example.com
Rob Thomas: firstname.lastname@example.org
Petrus Nel: email@example.com
Dieter van der Berg: firstname.lastname@example.org
Mike Behr: email@example.com
If you wish to submit an aplication or obtain more information, contact Stephen Mallory at (012) 365-2121 firstname.lastname@example.org. or Mike Behr at (012) 341-8554.
To assist prospective applicants, Guidelines and Procedures for Assessments have been drafted and will be made available via e-mail on request.
|-||Katie Brown has just beta flashed 'Hydrophobia' a 5.14a in Mont Sant, Spain.|
|-||Chris Sharma's boulder problem, 'Buttermilker' was repeated by Steven Jefferies, it is thought that the problem will go at around V12/13.|
|-||David Graham recently opened up a new route called 'Livin Astro' at Rumney, USA. It took him only six days of work to get the overhanging arete close to 'China Beach', he thinks it will go at 5.14b, at least commenting that it was the hardest route he has done.|
|Tommy Caldwell opens 'Kryptonite', possibly the first 5.14d in the US, at Rifle Colorado.|
|-||Ethan Pringle gets 'Soultrain' at Mt. Charleston, Nevada at only 13.|
|-||David Hume repeated 'Just Do It' a 5.14c in only 4 tries!|
|-||Dean Potter withTim O'Neil did the regular route on Half Dome in a record time of 2hrs & 8mins. Then they both free-soloed the Steck-Salathe and then went up the Nose in about 10hrs. The whole attempt took 21hrs!|
|-||Both Hans Florine & Dean Potter climbed both 'The Nose' on El Capitan and 'Dean Potter and 'Half Dome' within 24 hours. They were both alone free soloing some pitches & rope soloing others.|
Greg Streetfield got 'Paragon' a 30 while Grant Gleveland getting back into things redpointed 'Supernova' 30 and also repeated 'Barricade' 32.
Francis Vergunst a strong
17 year old now staying in Durban has been working hard at the cave. After
his quick redpoints of 'Invertigo' 27/28 and 'Cyclone Central' 28 he moved
on to point 'Paragon' 30 and then 'Riders on The Storm' also 30. He is
currently working 'Barricade', stay tuned ...
WORLD NEWS Posted 21/07/1999
Megan Emmons in the US at a tender 10 years old redpointed 'A Virgin No More' a 5.12d/5.13a (29) in Colorado. The route is rather sustained and technical. Another youth Chris Linder at the age of only 14, added another 5.14b (34), 'Reverse Polarity' and 'Mon Pote Assis' 5.14a (33) to his list of 5.14s. David Graham (17) repeated both 'Jaws' and 'China Beach' both possible 5.14b (34) routes at Rumney in the US. David Hume opened a new route 'Thanotopsis' in Red River Gorge.
El Capitan in Yosemite saw another speed record, Jim Herson repeated the 'Salathe' in 6.5 hours about an hour faster than Dean Potter who held the previous record.
Hans Florine took to rope soloing and did Half Dome in 7 hours using a Silent Partner device.
In Spain Josune Bereziartu has recently redpointed another 2 5.14b (34) routes. 'White Zombie' a 90 foot long climb overhanging 45 degrees and 'Ras' being very powerful she got the latter in 6 days.
In France the German brothers Christian and Andreas Bindhammer opened up 'Alien Carnage' a possible 9a (36). They also opened up 'Vitamania' another possible 9a (36) both in the Castillon area in the South of France.
The desperate routes on gritstone in the UK see more activity. A new route 'Impact Day' a E9/7a (31/2X) X for death fall potential was put up by Dave Birkett. 'Parthian Shot' a E9/6c (31/2X) was repeated by Neil Bentley who lead it & placed the gear on lead, Nic Sellers took the fourth ascent ogf this desperate route opened by Joohn Dunne. Adrian Berry and Steve Mclure gave 'Big Issue' its third & fourth repeats. This is another E9/6c (31/32R) route of John Dunnes.
Malcolm Smith also from the
UK has been doing some impressive stuff but all wearing a weight belt.
He repeated a 8a+/8b at the School Room and won a competition at the Foundry
with the weight belt.
MAGALIESBERG TRAD CLASSICS
Russ also put together this list with the other's input for the Magaliesberg kloofs.
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OVERSEAS NEWS Posted 25/06/1999
Klem Loskot set a boulder problem in The Grampians, Australia called 'Ammagamma' a V14/8b+, it is a sit start which was added onto 'Ummagumma' a V13. He also opened 'Cave Rave' another V14/8b+ at Hollow Mountain Cave. According to Klem this bouldering area is amongst the best in the world. Tommy Caldwell has freed 'The Salathe' on El Capitan in Yosemite, footage from his attempt has been used for a movie called Big Stone. Caldwell also onsighted 'Public Enemy' a 5.13d (32) and redpointed 'Calvario de Sciario' a 5.14b (34) both in Spain on a recent visit.
An 81 year old, Gerry Bloch topped out in 11 days on El Capitan, he did 'Aquarian Wall'. Steve House has put up a super hard mixed route on the east face of House Peak called 'M16', this is possibly one of the hardest mixed routes so far.
Lynn Hill is still climbing
hard, she recently pointed 'Scarface' a 5.13d (32) over 3 days in Smith
Rock, USA. The route is almost 40m of small crimps. Dave Graham an 18 year
old also managed to repeat 'Scarface' and 'To Bolt or Not to Be', a 5.14a
(33) in the same day!
Paul Brouard managed to repeat
'Short Circuit' a 32 at outshoorn in 3 tries!
Stormwatch gets a repeat Posted 26/11/1998
There has been a whole spate of redpoints in Fernkloof recently :
Ralph Brucher pointed "Stormwatch" at 31, impressive since this good route has only seen a few repeats even though it has been attempted so often. Marianne Pretorius redpointed "Vandals" at 26. Francis Vergunst only 16 redpointed "Lawyers Guns & Money ", 27 as well as "Glass Menagerie" also a 27. Joffrey Hyman also managed a redpoint of "Lawyers Guns & Money". Quite a few people are working "Faberge", the classic 28 so news should be following soon.