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Guide for Wellingtons Dome

Climb INDEX * The Goat Face * North Dome * Sarcophagus

The Goat Face
This is the shorter wall to the left (east) of the dome. It has a few 2-3 pitch routes on it.
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WHERE'S WALLY 17 [13D,A]
On the left of Goat Face. abseil possible with 60m ropes.
1. 15
2. 17
3. 16
 
THE BIG RED BUTTON 21 [15D,A]
Starts just left of INTRUSION, abseil possible with 60m ropes.
1. 18
2. 21
First Ascent: Sep 2001 Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost
 
INTRUSION 20 ** [12D,A]
Starts below a wide-open book, two pitches.
1. 19 Slab climbing, gets vertical to a little ledge.
2. 20 Climbs the wide open book on vertical rock and to the top.
First Ascent: Sep 2001 Galeo Saints & Joffrey Hyman. Bolted by Galeo, Joffrey & Paul Brouard.
 
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North Dome
This is the main wall of the Blinkkoppe granite dome. The face reaches about 150m in height at places.
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SEXY LADY 16 ** [15D,A]
Left of Older Slower Wiser, 50m up the gulley. This route is 5 pitches of grades (16, 15, 16, 13, 14).
First Ascent: Jun 2003 Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts
 
OLDER SLOWER WISER 17 [16D,A]
Climb the arete on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Enjoy the exposure on an easier climb with some interesting slab technique.
1. 17 (25m) Climb the ramp the tends left from the start. Climb the face to the ledge and chains.
2. 16 (15m) Climb the face then the slab to the chains on a small ledge. Not as easy as it looks.
3. 17 (25m) Good face climbing up to the next ledge and chains.
4. 16 (20m) Continue up off the stance to the next ledge and chains. Nice slab pitch.
5. 15 (20m) Climb up then diagonally left to the top of the dome and chains.
First Ascent: 2000 Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts
 
WHERE FALCONS FEAR 20 *** [12D,A]
This route starts to the left of WHERE EAGLES DARE and joins that route at the crux pitch. (20, 20, 19, 17)
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Neil Margetts and James Pitman
 
WHERE EAGLES DARE 20 [16D,A]
Starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall near the left arete. It is possible to abseil with two 50m ropes.
1. 16
2. 18
3. 17
4. 20
5. 18
6 . 14
First Ascent: Project : Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Gareth Frost, Tim Wilmot
 
DREAMING IN THE SUN PROJECT 19 [9D,A]
This route starts on the face left of the black stripe on the left of BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE.
First Ascent: Project: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost
 
BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE 23 **** [15D,A]
This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome.
1. 18 (25M) Start just right of a bush at the base of the dome. Climb up then leftwards to a tree growing out of the rock and up to a large flake. Climb up to a small ledge and chains.
2. 17 (25m) Move left off the stance and follow a crack and then a face to a large ledge above.
3. 14 (10m) Climb up through the scoop to a very large ledge with a tree.
4. 18 (20m) Climb up the ramp on the left of the ledge then up the face to the base to a chimney with a tree. Chimney up and then traverse right to a small ledge and chains.
5. 21 (25m) Start on the face then move left to the corner. Continue up past the overhanging scoop on the left then up the corner moving left higher and up to a large ledge.
6. 23 (20m) Climb leftwards off the ledge, up the ridge then climb the face moving right higher to a small ledge and chains.
7. 13 (15m) Climb up to a corner and continue up to chains on a long sloping ledge.
Descent: Abseil down the route.
Variation for pitch4: Ascend right hand corner of the big ledge. (17)
First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts along with Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney & H. Pringle
 
DREAM QUEEN 21 *** [16D,A]
Start as for BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE (BDND) but continue straight up just to the right of the grey water mark. Pitch 3 of the climb is shared with BDND. Pitch 4 climbs up to the right.
4 Pitches 19, 18, 21, 19
First Ascent: Sep 2003 Niel Margetts and James Pitman
 
WHEN THE CATS AWAY... 25 *** [18D,A]
Starts approximately 50m right of BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE. 3 Pitches (22, 25, 20)
First Ascent: Jul 2001 Gustav Janse van Rensburg and a French climber BB: A Hfner, M Seuring, G van Rensburg
 
YOUNGER FITTER FASTER 24 [15D,A]
This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.
1. 22 (30m) Start on the ramp below the steeper face above.
2. 24 (40m) You need to be fit for this one, it is a long pitch.
3. 22 (30m) You get to this pitch and you want to climb it fast because your feet are staring to hurt.
First Ascent: Mar 2001 Mark Seuring, Alard Hfner, Marianne Pretorius, Mike Mason and Hunt Cheney
 
GEM SQUASH 17 [N]
This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.
First Ascent: 2001 Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring, Gustaf van Rensburg
 
DESCENT ROUTES [A]
To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, a rap point is available at the back of the dome on the right hand side. A short rap will take you to a path where you can walk down right, of the base of the dome. Another rap point is planned for the left of the dome to provide a descent route down the left gully.
 
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Sarcophagus
This is the formation about 1km north of the Dome on the road side.
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PROJECT 22? [B]
Leftmost route, still project.
 
RHAMSES RAMROD 16 [B]
1. 16
2. 15
 
TUTANKHAMUNS TOUCHE 19 [B]
1. 18
2. 19
 
CLEOPATRAS CRACK 20 [B]
1. 20
2. 17
 
PHAROAHS PHALLUS 21 [B]
1. 21
2. 17
 
LAND OF THE LONG MAMBAS 16 * [8D,A]
On the North side of the Sarcophagus on the left of a short slab with a pillar above. The route is 2 pitches (14, 16).
First Ascent: Jun 2002 Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts
 
A SCARAB BEETLE ATE MY BRAINS 16 * [8D,A]
15 m right of LAND OF THE LONG MAMBAS. 2 Pitches (12, 16)
First Ascent: Jun 2002 Darryl Margetts and Gareth Frost
 
ARCHIMEDES SCREW 19 ** [8D,A]
On West side of Sarcophagus about 50m left of the right hand arte.
First Ascent: Jun 2003 Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts
 
DANCING WITH ANUBIS 18 ** [8D,A]
Just right of ARCHIMEDES SCREW.
First Ascent: Jun 2003 Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts
 
EYE OF OSYRIS 21 *** [10D,A]
Right of DANCING WITH ANUBIS.
First Ascent: Jun 2003 Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts
 
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