SACIN - Route Guide for The Cave Areas

Climb INDEX * Big Cave * Blue Wall Area * The Barrier Reef

These are the crags that you can see from the campsite. There are two big caves, only one developed at present and a band of rock above and to the right of these crags. They are best climbed early morning or late afternoon as they can get very hot.

Big Cave

This is the obvious cave east of the campsite, it has a few excellent climbs. The area gets sun most of the day so climb early morning and late afternoon. Walk past the swimming pool away from the campsite, follow a path that leads through a fence and over a weir. After the weir head rightward to the open field and across it. Head towards the white scree below the cave, there will be a path through the bush. Scramble up the scree slope and to the cave. There is one route in the small lower cave and another in the big cave with all the stalactites. A few vertical routes are found on each side of the main cave. At this point there are no routes in the higher cave to the left.

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CHICKS DIG IT		18 ** [12D,A]
This is the leftmost of the two routes on the left side of the big cave. Scramble up from the cave on polished rock to the base of the routes. The rock on the routes is glass-like, not well suited for a warm day.
First Ascent: 1998 Ian Manson
CHICKS DIG IT TOO		20 ** [12D,A]
The route just right of the 17, the last route before SHORT CIRCUIT in the big cave. The rock is also very polished on this route but it is fun.
First Ascent: 1998 Ian Manson
SHORT CIRCUIT		32 ***** [17D,A]
This is the only and very worthwhile line through the steep cave. The route is 20m of good cave climbing on stalactites and tufas.
First Ascent: Jun 1997 Jeremy Colenso. Bolted by Jeremy and Shannon Law.
GILLETTE		20 ** [7D,A]
This is the line on the grey face right of the big cave. The route is a little sharp with a sting in the tail too.
First Ascent: 1997 Jeremy Wilse-Samson
BEHR HUG		24 **** [8D,A]
A classic line up the right side of the lower cave. Great climbing on big holds and tufas.
First Ascent: 1997 Mike Behr

Blue Wall Area

This wall gets sun most of the day and can get quite hot. The area is located above and to the right of the main cave. Walk as for the caves but before heading through the bush to the white scree slope continue 30-50m further rightwards until you find a break in the bush near a ditch in the field. The path up the hill is not very well defined as yet.

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BITTER SWEET		31 [10D,A]
The route is in the middle of the upper face above and to the right of the big cave. It has two cruxy sections and a rest in the middle. Consensus grading wanted.
First Ascent: Nov 1998 Jeremy Colenso
BOBBEJOHN		33 **** [5D,A]
This is a small cave 30-50m right of BITTER SWEET.
First Ascent: 1998 Klem Loskott, bolted by J. Wilse-Samson

The Barrier Reef

This is a 9-11m high face right of the blue wall area. It gets early morning shade. The rock is a bit sharp and the routes are bouldery. Access is the same as for the blue wall area but continue rightward for about 50m.

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BARRIER REEF		17 [6D,A]
The grey slab on the left side of this wall.
First Ascent: Jul 1997 Shannon Law
AN OSTRITCHES LIFE IS SHORT & HARD		26 [6D,A]
This name was too long! It reads AN OSTRITCHES LIFE IS SHORT, HARD & BRUTISH.
First Ascent: Jul 1997 Shannon Law
BATTERY POWERED VORR-VORR		25 [6D,A]

First Ascent: Jul 1997 Craig Bruton
SHARK ATTACK		26 [7D,A]

First Ascent: Jul 1997 Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law
OPEN PROJECT		[2B]
Open project half bolted by Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law.

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