SACIN - Route Guide for The Main Wall

Climb INDEX * The Main Wall * The Initiation * The Wave * The Upper Tier

This is the impressive and steep wall that can be seen as you are driving towards the campsite on your left. There is a small area just before the Main Wall and a few routes on the crags higher up and around the corner towards the campsite from the Main Wall. From late morning the Main wall goes into shade, The Wave and Upper Tier get sun most of the day and get a bit of shade late afternoon.

The Main Wall

This is the best area at Oudtshoorn with a 30-40m high wall of steep and very featured limestone. Most of the best routes are in this area. The crag goes into shade from late morning. To get there walk back out of the de Hoek entrance along the road for about 100m. A path leads right and up the mountain, it is sometimes marked by a small cairn. Follow this path up and then parallel to the road until you get to the main overhaging wall. This crag was initially developed by Sean Maasch and Jono Fisher in the 1990s. It was revived again in 1996 by Arno Naude, Gunther Migeotte, Shannon Law & Jeremy Colenso. Please take care to not damage the bushmen paintings at this crag.

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OPEN PROJECT		[16D,A]
Open project called STREETFIGHTER, possibly between 32 & 34.
First Ascent: 1997 Bolted by Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law.
CALDWELLS ROUTE		31 *** [12D,A]
This route takes the prominent stalactite. DANGER, the route needs rebolting, there is quite a bit of drag and the first bolt is a little high. Try take a really long sling to reduce the drag.
First Ascent: 1998 Tommy Caldwell Bolted by A. Kohler, Mark Turkstra & Jono Fisher.
PAWS		26 ***** [14D,A]
The line following the tufas, good route.
First Ascent: 1996 Jeremy Colenso. Bolted by A. Naude.
TEARS FOR FEARS		27 **** [17D,A]
A stamina problem with a backflip to a tufor.
First Ascent: 1996 Jeremy Colenso. Bolted by Gunther Migeotte & A. Naude.
UP FOR GRABS		32 **** [13D,A]
Easy up to the crux on a desperate sloper, onto some more non trivial moves.
First Ascent: 1998 Tommy Caldwell. Bolted by Roger Nattrass.
GOONIE-GOO-GOO		22 **** [10D,A]
Good route with some balancy moves at the top.
First Ascent: D. van der Riet. Rebolted by Roger Nattrass & Ian Manson.
PHALLIC MECHANIC		24 **** [10D,A]
Classic route.
First Ascent: 1997 Paul Schlotveldt
JONNY ROTTEN		27 *** [12D,A]
If you go straight up past the bolts it is slighlty harder than going onto the arete lower down.
First Ascent: 1997 Jeremy Colenso
EL NINO		30 ***** [11D,A]
A super classic. Careful to start slighlty left so as to avoid the bushen paintings!
First Ascent: 1997 Jeremy Colenso
HALF SEVEN		29 *** [11D,A]
A good 29 upto the level of RAPSCALLIONS LE CODGE, use its chains to lower off. The route is manufactured though.
First Ascent: 1998 Jeremy Colenso
SEVEN		32 ** [15D,A]
Bolted and manufactured by Sean Maasch & Jono Fisher in 1993. Resurrected and new bolts added in 1998 by Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law. It still needs more bolts and anchors.
First Ascent: 1998 Tommy Caldwell
RAPSCALLIONS LE CODGE		24 *** [12D,A]
The crack line just right of SEVEN.
First Ascent: Mike Roberts, bolted by Keith James.
BITTER & TWISTED		26+ *** [12D,A]
A very bouldery start to a good route.
First Ascent: Jeremy Colenso. Bolted by Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law with verbal 'encouragement' from Ed February!

The Initiation

As you are approching the Main Wall you will pass a shorter grey wall with a few vertical routes, some are a little sharp.

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DE JA VU LA BUOUX		22 [12D,A]
A long slab climb.
First Ascent: 1998 Bolted by Keith James.
INITIATION		20 [8D,A]

First Ascent: 1997 Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law
PINS AND NEEDLES		17 [8D,A]

First Ascent: 1997 Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law
SOUTHERN CROSS		16 [6D,A]

First Ascent: 1997 Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law

The Wave

This crag is on private property, the owner is unhappy with climbers using it, please respect her wishes. From the entrance of de Hoek you can see this crag off to the west. Follow a vague path through the vegetation onto the hillside on the south side of the river bed. Walk up the hill to the higher, bigger crags and traverse into the base of the wave to try avoid the bushy vegetation. Long pants can help not to get too scratched on the appraoch. The wall is very appealing but only a few lines go here due to the lack of holds. There is one good route here. See the photograph for The Upper Tier.

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FIRST, LAST, EVERYTHING		26 **** [10D,A]

First Ascent: 1998 Jeremy Colenso, bolted by Ian Manson.
PROJECT		[10B,A]
A big bees nest chased the climbers away. Hangers have been removed.
First Ascent: Bolted by Ed February
UNKNOWN		[8B?]
Unknown status of route.
First Ascent: 1997 Bolted by Mary Jenner.

The Upper Tier

This crag is also on private property, the owner is unhappy with climbers using it, please respect her wishes. This is a north-east facing wall just above The Wave. Access is as for The Wave and then scramble up to the crags.

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FAIRGROUND ATTRACTION		19 [B,A]
Climbs the featured face.
First Ascent: 1998 Jeremy Wilse-Samson & G Reay
THE PLAYING FIELD		20/21 *** [B,A]
This route climbs the crack/seam. A good route.
First Ascent: 1998 Jeremy Wilse-Samson & G. Reay
PERFORATION ARETE		24 [B,A]
A classic setting.
First Ascent: 1998 Jason Temple-Forbes

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