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2005/07/16 Adrenalin rush climbing gym has relocated. It has moved to Little Falls Resort.The address is Falls Rd Little Falls, just of Hendrik Potgieter Ave,on the same premisis as The Keg Bouldering area. Bouldering and top rop routes are available. Contact Jaco-louis 083 419-5850. City Rock 2005/06/07 On Friday the 3rd of June @ 7pm CityROCK Indoor Climbing Centre will be hosting Fred Nicole and Justin Hawkins at a very special screening of their recently released Rocklands Bouldering Video. Come join us for the viewing and then for some chats and "Boulder Tricks" after. BYOB Some "Mystery Challenges" can be expected, and some "Mystery Prizes" to go with them... First Black South African to Summit Everest 2005/06/03 Sibusiso Vilane is the first black African to summit Everest has managed it again.
Phantom of the Opera 2005/04/25 After much wailing and gnashing of teeth Angus 'Divot' McFarlane has redpointed the ultra classic Phantom of the Opera 28 at the Canyon in Kloof Gorge, KZN. Also this weekend in KZN Benjamin de Charmoy made easy work of Gladiator 28 at the Wave Cave.
National Bouldering League Update 2005/04/06 The outdoor final for the National Bouldering League is on 9th & 10th April 2005 near Swinburne. Be sure to be there! "Just a reminder that the rooms and house in Swinburne is fully booked so there is only space in the barn and camping. The barn is on first come first serve, and costs R45 p/p/n. Camping is R30 p/p/n. Registration is at 8am on Saturday morning. See you there. Great Prizes form First accent, Montrail, The North Face, Back Packer, Black Diamond and Petzl" - Eric Riemann MCSA looking for climbers to sponsor 2005/04/03 "The Cogmans Rock Rally 2005 takes place 22-24 April, and the JHB Section Committee was thinking that it would be a good idea to send down some good climbers and sponsor them for petrol costs. So we are looking for 4 strong climbers who wish to attend. Please send your names to me by the April 7 with a short resume of your climbing achievements, particularly noting your competition climbing strengths." - Roland Magg Email Roland if you are interested. Bouldering League 2005 Outdoor Final Update 2005/04/02 "The final will be based at Swinburne, and the climbing will be on a farm about 20km away. We will be leaving Swinburne at around 9:30am on Saturday, driving through to the area, climb there until around 4:30. Then drive back to Swinburne and do the prize giving that evening. Every one needs to be at Swinburne by 8:30am latest, for registration on Saturday. The accommodation is ranging in cost from R45p/n in a dormitory and R85p/n in a room sleeps 2 so the room is R170 per night/p or R30 camping on the grass outside. If you want a room please contact the owner Ansie Swart on 082-926-1155 and book it as there aren't too many available. Bring your strongest pair of arms, and all the psyche you have! Enjoy and see you there." - Eric Riemann Cogman's Rock Rally 2005 2005/04/02 The Cogmans Rock Rally 2005 is just around the corner 22-24 April. The rally will be run from the Avalon Springs and is once again supported by our sponsors Capestorm and Ram Mountaineering, home to Black Diamond, Saltic and Beal. In addition to the usual climbing in Badkloof, I have decided to add Legoland, Ramset, Forest and Bosch to the equation. The start is at 9h00 on Saturday morning and the finish at17h00 that afternoon, points will be deducted for finishing late and disqualification after 17h30. Teams of two set out to climb routes in red point fashion in order to collect points, the points from both climbers are added together for the team total. The strategy one uses is very important, lots of easy routes or fewer hard routes, and be careful not to pump yourself out at the beginning, it's a long day. The categories are18 and younger; 19 to 39 and 40 and older. These categories are split into male, female and mixed, giving a total of 9 categories. There is a small cash prize for the first and second place and a medal for first. The emphasis is on everyone having a chance to win a prize so the bigger product prizes are lucky draw. There is a prize for the team with the most routes and the usual bottle of Jack Daniels for the most creative team dress. The first 50 teams get a Rock Rally T-shirt, dried fruit pack and coke voucher, maybe some chutney from two years ago, if there's some still around. On the Friday night there is the usual Pasta Extravaganza and registration from 19h00 to 22h00, all participants get free access to the hot springs for Friday, Saterday and Sunday, so if you enter on Friday night you can already go for a relaxing swim before hitting the sack. Registration on Saterday is from 6h00 to 10h00, note climbers are probably the only creatures who register after the race has started, the bickers and runners still haven't gotten their heads around that one. No starters after 10h00 please !!! There are drink and food stalls at the springs and physio massage, for the evening there is a beer tent, wine tent and a spit braai, so after lots of cranking and a good swim, hang around for supper as well, saves you having to start your own fire and cooking. There will also be drumming that evening so bring your drum or rent one at the springs. On Sunday there is the On Track Sprint Adventure Race so if you have some energy left and have a bike and some running shoe there will be an opportunity for you to get all sweaty and dirty on Sunday or just relax and do what you want, don' forget you still have access to the springs. See you THERE and remember CRANK TIL YOU DROP ! Prices: Entry Rock Rally - R60.00 per team. Pasta Extravaganza - R45.00 per person. Spit Braai - ? value for money. Scoring: grade - score 9 - 9 10 - 11 11 - 15 12 - 20 13 - 25 14 - 30 15 - 35 16 - 45 17 - 55 18 - 65 19 - 85 20 - 105 21 - 130 22 - 160 23 - 200 24 - 255 25 - 320 26 - 400 27 - 500 28 - 625 29 - 780 30 - 975 31 - 1220 32 - 1525 33 - 2000 SA Mountain Incidents Database 2005/04/01 "I have now decided that the SA Mountain Incidents database is ready for use. It can be found at: http://mountain.tabbott.com/sami/ This database is intended to provide a location for people to report all security and safety-related incidents (other than accidents) in the SA mountains. The intention is to raise awareness of which areas are hotspots and to provide an opportunity to learn from those who have been there, as well as to see if trends can be spotted. It is NOT a primary crime reporting DB - we are NOT the police. Our focus is on increasing mountaineering safety. However, we may become aware of cases which have not been reported to the police or land-manager. When an incident is first logged, it is recorded as UNCONFIRMED and does not immediately appear on the statistics. At the same time, an email is automatically sent to the DB administrator informing them of the new incident's addition so that they can follow up. Once a follow-up has been done and the DB admin is happy that the details are sufficiently accurate then the incident is marked as VERIFIED and is included in the stats. Any reporting party can request that their ncident be kept confidential, in which case only the title of the incident is displayed - no enquiry is possible by the general public. Certain parties such as landowners, land managers and law-enforcement may (at their request) be registered as 'trusted parties' and will then be given login access to the DB, allowing them to verify incidents and to see the detail of those incidents which have been kept confidential. Please encourage people to record details of incidents in this database. the more we know the easier it becomes to combat the probems." Rob Thomas New Routes at Waterval Boven 2005/04/01 All the new routes at Waterval Boven are now updated on www.rocrope.com/newroutes.html. They will soon be added to the SAClimb database too. Cape Bouldering League 2005/03/30 The last round of the Cape Bouldering League was held and the 10 top climbers qualify for the National outdoor final. 1. Clinton Martinengo (36) 2. Ben Harper (33) 3. Marijus Smigelskis (30) 4. Shaun Jansa (28) 5. Edvinas Smigelskis (25) 6. Dale Posthumus (24) 6. Craig Reed (24) 7. Arjan de Kock (18) 8. Emile Esterhuizen (17) 9. Corne van Daalen (16) 10. Justin Hawkins National Bouldering League: Final 2005/03/29 "We have just come back from the Free State, rock viewing trip. After almost 800km of zigzagging through the Free State, being warned off land by Lion breeders and checking out amazing new potential crags, we decided to run the final at last years venue. We have added 20 new awesome problems, bringing up the total to almost 70 problems ranging in grade from 4 to 7C, enough for everyone. The next event at St Peters which is next Tuesday the 5th of April will be the B League Final. The people who have made it to the Masters need not compete as they are already through to the Outdoor Final on the 8th 9th and 10th. Please watch this space for accommodation and time sheet." Eric Riemann
Cedarberg Management Plan 2005/03/22 The MCSA has successfully negotiated a draft management plan for sport climbing and bouldering in the Cedarberg with the CNC. The affected areas are Rocklands and Truitjieskraal and the important change is that climbers will be able to open a LIMITED number of new routes after following a STRICT approval process. You can check out the management plan at cap.mcsa.org.za I'ts important to note that the land managers, CNC, have agreed that climbers can equip new routes provided climbers themselves ensure the guidelines of this plan are adhered to. This means that if you know of someone equipping a route without permission, you will be obliged to report them in order to ensure that CNC does not close these areas completely. Finally, we all love the Cedarberg and as locals need to ensure that this beautiful environment doesn't turn into a scrap heap criss crossed with paths.
Routes rebolted in Magaliesberg 2005/03/17 Over the past few weeks the following routes in the Tonquani complex in the Magaliesberg have been inspected and re-bolted. In some cases, bolts were added (with the permission of the first ascentionist). Top anchors have also been placed where needed. Boulder Kloof 1. Fame, fortune and glory (27) - R Nattrass, 1988. Fully retrobolted, 2005 Upper Tonquani 2. Cadbury (22) - M Cartwright, C O'Dowd, 1989. 3 bolts replaced, 2005 3. Nestle (23) - M Cartwright, C O'Dowd, 1989. 3 bolts replaced, 2005 4. Last train to glory (21) - R Dodding, 1990. Inspected, top anchors added 2005 5. Return of the Jedi (21) - D Margetts et al, 1989. Inspected, top anchors added 2005 Cederberg Kloof 6. Carrion comfort (25) - M Seegers, D Margetts, 1992. 4 bolts replaced, 2005 7. Horse latitudes (22) - M Seegers, D Margetts, 1992. 1 bolt replaced, 2005 8. Riders of the storm (25) - D Margetts, M Seegers, 1992. 1 bolt replaced, 2005 9. Terminator (28) - M Cartwright, 1990. Inspected 10. Climbing in bed with Madonna (27) - P Lazerus, 1991. Fully re-bolted, 2005 This leaves 24 routes with bolts on in the Tonquani complex unchecked. If anyone is keen to re-bolt them, please contact Neil Margetts. You should get the bolts courtesy of the MCSA. The routes that have received attention have all been found to be of excellent quality. Go try them!
MCSA Bolting Initiative 2005/02/24 "This year the Johannesburg Section of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) is allocating at least 30% of its bolting fund to re-equipping old sport routes. To facilitate this, rebolting meets have been scheduled in two of the most critical areas, the Magaliesberg Kloofs and Waterval Boven. Neil Margetts will lead the first meet to Tonquani on March 13, 2005, and Alard Hufner will lead the Boven meet on the long weekend of April 30th - May 2nd. So power up those drills and sign on! For those interested in gaining bolting experience, this will be an ideal opportunity to learn from guys in the know and render a valuable service to the climbing community at the same time. To sign up, contact Neil on 083 669 3028 or email him at neilm@xsinet.co.za. With many of the older sport routes around Gauteng and Mpumalanga turning 10-15 years old, the MCSA recognizes that these types of initiatives will need to happen regularly in years to come. You can make a difference by recording routes that need rebolting, or even better, by safely re-equipping such routes yourself. Remember to first contact the MCSA, and not to change any of the placements when rebolting." - MCSA Cerro Torre 2005/02/15 Alard Hufner and Mark Seuring summitted Cerro Torre after 72 hours from base camp. Marianne Pretorius and Duard summitted after 98 hours. Thrombi Event Change 2005/02/09 The Thrombi event will no longer have a Speed Climbing section but rather a bouldering event. Please contact Devlin on devlin@devlinfogg.com or call on 083 799-3003 for more information. National Bouldering League Next Events 2005/02/07 The next events are due for the National bouldering League, KZN at the KZNMC on the 10th of Feb and Gauteng at St Peters on the 8th of Feb.
Rory Lowther Memorial Challenge 2005/02/02 The Rory Lowther Memorial Challenge is on this weekend at Swinburne on 5th & 6th February. Register soon, don't delay. Your challenge fee includes the Climbing, Bouldering, Hiking and the Burn-a-thon, a free T-Shirt, give-aways, a free gym session to Urban Crag and the NEW Swinburne Route Guide. Visit www.rorylowther.za.net.
New Climbing Gym 2005/01/27 The Perfect Wall, a 12m indoor climbing wall with several overhangs has just opened in Stellenbosch at the Perfect Health Wellness Centre in the Eikestad Mall. It has over 400m2 of climbing surface with several top rope & lead routes. an abseil tower and a great bouldering cave. There is also a dedicated kiddies wall of 6m. Gear rental is available on site. It is air conditioned and is part of a full health and wellness centre with numerous facilities. Open everyday of the week till late. Call (021) 882-9805 for more information. Crime at Boven 2005/01/26 Just a warning regarding Waterval Boven. Four peoplewere mugged on the path between the Coven and Flying is Fun crags on Saturday 22 Jan at gunpoint, fortunately only cellphones were taken. Swinburne Guide 2005/01/26 The Swinburne route guide has been updated again in preparation for the Rory Lowther challenge early in February. It now includes the Forest and Hillside boulders as well as a few more routes. Gauteng Bouldering League 2005/01/24 The Gauteng Bouldering league starts on the 25th Jan at St Peters School and will be held every second Tues. The registration cost is R150 payable at your first event. (Students & MCSA members get 20% off). 8 Feb 22 Feb 8 Mar 22 Mar 5 Apr 9-10 Apr - National outdoor final. The top 3 scores will count towards the ranking. Contact Eric on 083 272-4104 for more information.
Barn Re-Opening 2005/01/18 The Barn, formally known as Rock to Ten will be re-opened as of the first of February 2005. It offers over 160 square metres of climbing walls including a 8 metre roof, 80 square metres of bouldering cave, 1851 Grips, routes varying from 11's to 27's and the most competitive prices in South Africa. It is also Pretoria's only climbing gym. There is currently a pre-opening 6 month membership for sale at 15% off the normal price, they are going for R500 each. Contact Paul Bruyere for any further information on 082 335-3220.
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